TEXAS TWO WAYS

A pair of northerners discover the joy, pride, and irresistible charm of Texas.

A few months ago, I found myself in the great state of Texas. The official reason was a friend’s party in Austin, but I turned it into a long weekend with my dear friend Nancy. We decided to experience Texas by exploring two of its great cities—Houston, the land of oil and gas, barbecue, and space exploration, and Austin, a city known for live music, outdoor fun, and a thriving tech scene.

Everything in the Lone Star State feels bigger—the hotels, the streets, the hats, the boots, and especially the greetings. We felt welcomed immediately and have never been surrounded by so many genuinely happy people. And I don’t know what Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson meant when they sang, “Mamas, don’t let your babies grow up to be cowboys,” but I’d say … do.

We chose the Four Seasons in both cities, starting in Houston, where the hotel rises as a 30-story urban resort in the heart of downtown. It’s kitty-corner from the House of Blues on the west and the Toyota Center—home of the Houston Rockets and epic concerts—to the south. It’s also close to the Theater District and more than ten nationally recognized museums. The Museum of Fine Arts is a must; it’s one of the largest and most celebrated art museums in the Americas, with a collection spanning more than 5,000 years of culture. And then there’s NASA, only 45 minutes away—the place where “Houston, we have a problem!” made history.

After checking in, we headed to the hotel’s bourbon and whiskey bar, Bayou & Bottle, for an expert-guided bourbon-tasting experience featuring a flight of Old Forester bourbons: 1870 Original Batch (America’s first bottled bourbon), 1897 Bottled in Bond (100 proof), 1910 Old Fine Whiskey, and 1920 Prohibition Style. Fun fact: Brown-Forman was one of only six companies granted a federal license to produce “medicinal whiskey” during Prohibition, allowing Old Forester to remain on the market. Each sip was rich and bold, but 1910 was my favorite. As an icebreaker, our host asked the 20 of us around the table to introduce ourselves. It was a genius way to meet our mostly local, cowboy-hat-clad oil-and-gas-industry tablemates. We laughed about Landman, swapped stories, and sipped bourbon as an enormous feast appeared atop a cowhide-covered table. It was a friendly, boozy, unforgettable introduction to Texas.

The next morning started in the best way possible, with a spa visit and the ELEMIS Renew Facial. After 80 blissful minutes with the immensely talented Estefania, my skin felt lifted and refreshed—and my spirit even more so.

Before dinner, we stepped into Le Salon Krigler, a VIP lounge offering a deep dive into the world of bespoke fragrance. We learned about six generations behind this storied perfumery, while sampling archival scents once worn by icons like Jackie O, Cary Grant, and Audrey Hepburn. Each fragrance felt as distinct as the legend who wore it. For $85,000, guests can even create a legacy scent of their own, bottled in a custom crystal vessel. While Krigler boutiques exist in prestigious hotels around the world, Houston’s Four Seasons is the only one in the world to offer the VIP salon. The experience was, quite literally, scent-sational.

Dining in Houston is a thing. As the fourth largest (and most diverse) city in the country, its culinary scene is booming. For Texas-style barbecue, Truth BBQ and The Pit Room are musts. The Four Seasons also delivered with two standouts. We had a fantastic lunch at the aforementioned Bayou & Bottle, which serves bourbon-led cuisine with global influences—don’t miss the lobster tacos, crispy Brussels sprouts, or the Garrison Brothers Whiskey Brisket Sandwich (when in Texas, brisket is nonnegotiable). Later that evening, we ventured to Toro Toro, the hotel’s pan-Latin steakhouse that highlights bold, open-fire cooking. While we perused the menu, Nancy’s Smoked Manhattan arrived aflame beneath a glass dome. I had the Mercado Margarita with hibiscus-rosemary foam—divine. The bison carpaccio starter disappeared quickly, followed by a perfectly spiced Lomo Saltado of beef tenderloin, heirloom tomatoes, red onion, and creamy jasmine rice.

After dinner, we were led to a room lined with a wall-length bookcase. A hidden keypad, a whispered code, and a false wall suddenly opened to reveal Bandista, a chic speakeasy (ranked as the #1 bar in Texas and #59 in North America). From the sleek bar facing an impressive array of bottles, guests can either order from an elaborate cocktail menu or simply describe their mood. I chose the latter and watched a flurry of activity before my feelings arrived in a glass, garnished with rosemary. Bandista isn’t just a lounge—it’s an experience.

For the three-hour drive to Austin, we opted for Vonlane, a luxury coach service that redefines road travel. Plush seats with leg rests, pillows, blankets, lunch, and full-size snacks (served twice). Frankly, it was more luxe than flying.

Upon arrival, we took our very first Waymo Uber to the Four Seasons Austin. After we strapped in, the initial reaction of “What do we do now?” quickly changed to amazement as the driverless ride unfolded smoothly.

Walking into the Four Seasons Austin was a full sensory experience. First, smell with a beautiful hint of sage lingering in the air. Then, sight as the vast lobby burst with design. Then, sound as live music filled the space. There were dogs. There was a Moët & Chandon vending machine. We fell in love immediately.

From our beautifully appointed suite, we overlooked Lady Bird Lake, where four horseback riders in cowboy hats trotted along the river trail like it was the most natural thing in the world. Gosh, I love Texas.

We got ready for our friend’s 80s-themed party—big hair, blue eyeshadow, lots of hairspray—and headed to Troublemaker Studios, a massive indoor-outdoor space transformed with sets from every iconic 80s movie imaginable: E.T., Ghostbusters, Trading Places, Star Wars, even a dance troupe performing Thriller. The surprise entertainment included country great Luke Bryan, Bon Jovi’s David Bryan’s rendition of “Living on a Prayer,” and Calvin Harris, who had the crowd busting moves like it was 1985. It was BIG—just like everything else in Texas.

The next day called for recovery, Four Seasons style. Our recalibration began with the hotel’s signature afternoon tea—A-Tea-X. As we admired lake views, fragrant teas arrived in darling teapots alongside tea-inspired cocktails (plum-infused vodka blended with chai tea and mint syrup, garnished with a lime twist) and beautifully presented sweet and savory bites. We followed that with a visit to the spa for a seasonal rose oil and honey massage using honey from the hotel’s own beehive.

Following a post-massage nap, we headed downstairs to the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, Ciclo. Here, we had one of the most memorable moments of our trip, “Animación at Ciclo.” This immersive digital wine tasting transformed our tabletop into a cinematic journey through France, Italy, and Napa Valley. Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson appeared as a tiny apparition, while Four Seasons sommelier—and professional cellist—Joe Peña guided us through rare pours. It was storytelling, education, and sensory magic rolled into one. I sincerely hope it comes to Chicago—I’d happily do it again and again.

Dinner followed in Ciclo’s main dining room, where Chef Juan Mateo blends Texas tradition with Latin flair. On our waiter’s enthusiastic recommendation, we ordered the Flambéed Texas Wagyu Tomahawk, complete with a dramatic tableside flame show. The evening ended at Mohawk Austin, a multi-level music venue showcasing emerging artists—the kind you just know are headed for stardom.

That night, I again slept like a baby thanks to a customized mattress topper and pillow. Yes, the hotel offers a mattress topper menu in addition to a pillow menu. Only at the Four Seasons.

We left on the day of January’s ice storm. I was secretly hoping ours would be among the 13,000 flight cancellations just for one more day along the shores of Lady Bird Lake, where our stay felt restorative, inspiring, and unmistakably Austin.

Houston impressed us with its confidence, culture, and culinary firepower, while Austin stole our hearts with its music, creativity, and soul-soothing pace. Together, they capture the pride, warmth, and unmistakable spirit of Texas. Visit both cities, experience them fully, and don’t be surprised when you find yourself wondering how soon you can come back.

For more information, visit fourseasons.com, krigler.com, truthbbq.com, thepitroombbq.com, vonlane.com, toyotacenter.com, nasa.gov, mfah.com, mohawkaustin.com.