BEYOND THE CORK

Napa Valley needs no introduction. For wine enthusiasts, its name alone conjures up the image of relaxing days spent visiting sun-dappled vineyards. Yet, recent additions to the Napa scene are sure to entice enthusiasts of all sorts from bikers and hikers to culinary adventurers, even teetotalers.

My sister and I recently met in Napa to explore all the newest happenings. Our heavenly weekend started with an early morning stop at the serene Meadowood Spa. As I followed the attendant to my private spa suite, the calming sound of water from the low waterfalls lining the hallway was just a hint of the immense relaxation to come. I opted for the Essential Journey Massage, which started with a pretreatment aromatherapy steam. After the steam, my masseuse began the treatment by using a tuning fork to produce vibrations that my body aligned to. What a novel way to heal any aches resulting from the daily grind or a cross-country flight! In a state of total relaxation after our incredible treatments, my sister and I sipped organic cold-pressed juices while relaxing in the mineral soaking pool in the Garden Lounge, enjoying the blue skies above.

Later that day, we met with the Napa Valley Wine Trail Coalition who enlightened us about an amazing community effort—The Vine Trail. This 47-mile walking and biking trail system will connect the entire Napa Valley with some vintners donating parts of their land to allow for the trail to form. Truly, remarkable. On the trail, which starts in historic Vallejo and passes through the world-renowned vineyards and towns of Napa Valley, visitors will be able to stop for wine tastings at various wineries—an utter delight to combine views of the mountains on either side of the Valley with wine along the way. The trail culminates in Calistoga’s train depot where antique rail cars have been re-purposed ever so chicly. The individual rail cars now house alluring restaurants and shops including a champagne and oyster bar, Mexican restaurant, chocolate shop, and retail boutique. Next door is Calistoga Depot Provisions—a modern mercantile and wine shop with an outdoor wood-fired pizza oven, delicious coffees, prepared foods, and more. Just the spot to end a day after exploring The Vine Trail.

A few blocks away from downtown Calistoga lies The Francis House—our luxury boutique home for the weekend. Built in 1886, this French Second Empire-style home is surrounded by lush grounds full of vibrant citrus trees and a lovely pool. As the day was a bit chilly, we decided to enjoy a wine apéritif by the fire. The proprietors, she an interior designer/he a developer, stumbled upon the dilapidated property in 2015 and spent years restoring it. Now, each room is infused with old-world Parisian elegance updated with modern-day touches like heated floors and built-in bedside USB chargers. Guests can rejuvenate in the infrared sauna and the salt room when not being regaled by hilarious stories by the proprietors who truly make you feel like a guest in their home.

That evening, we headed back to Meadowood to dine at Forum. This light, airy restaurant with an adjoining outdoor lounge has a more casual feel than the property’s former three-Michelin-star restaurant that was tragically destroyed in a 2020 wildfire. We began with the refreshing Meadowood Greens (burrata, citrus, and crispy sunchoke drizzled with a pistachio vinaigrette) and a lobster bisque made with a vadouvan spice blend and coconut milk—a balance of exquisite flavors. The black bass with mustard greens was cooked to perfection and an absolute treat. A rich chocolate dessert signaled the delicious end to a memorable meal. Retreating to our deluxe accommodations at The Francis House, we were thrilled to end the day in such a cozy and luxurious space.

The next morning we decided to veer from the expected by tasting not wine but olive oil at the just-opened tasting room of Grove Entirely female-owned and operated by a mother and daughter, Grove 45 is a small, premium brand of extra virgin olive oil. The art of producing extra virgin olive oil dates to Greek and Roman times, and the Grove 45 team remains dedicated to preserving this ancient craft. We learned the fine art of tasting olive oil (much like Stanley Tucci in Searching for Italy we too swirled the olive oil in small, blue-colored glasses) and savored their homemade olive oil ice cream—unreal in its amazingness.

After a brief shopping stint (we loved Alchemy Works) and an espresso break in famed Yountville, we returned to traditional Napa pursuits with a signature tasting at Elizabeth Spencer Winery. Their tasting room at the historic 1872 brick Post Office building is decorated with kitschy items from the past (walls lined with copper pots, antique sifters hanging from the ceiling), and our sommelier educated us in the nuanced differences of each vintage we tried.

Dinner that evening was at Sam’s Social Club, a lively and fun spot with a Nantucket meets California vibe. Our first course consisted of baby lettuces and radishes with a refreshing and delicious fine herb vinaigrette. Next, was an Ora King salmon prepared with whipped roasted garlic potatoes, blistered cherry tomatoes, and a divine lemon beurre blanc sauce. Not only was every item cooked to perfection, but the ingredients were as fresh as could be.

Our last morning before departing involved a stop at Clif Family Farms to try their newest offering—a Farm Elixir Mocktail Flight. Held in their Refugio Tasting Room which boasts an impressive view of the mountains across the valley, the Farm Elixir Mocktail Flight is a non-alcoholic experience expertly paired with small bites. The offerings include a pluot lavender limonata, a pear ginger with chocolate, and a blackberry crumble with cinnamon and honey.

While its beautiful vineyards and exquisite vintages are not to be missed, Napa’s newest offerings from bike trails to mocktails signal there’s so much more to this beloved destination than wine alone.

For more information, visit visitnapavalley.com, thevintetrail.org, and thefrancishouse.com.