UMA PAIXÃO POR PORTUGAL

Occupying the west coast of Europe’s Iberian Peninsula, Portugal offers a bit of everything—rich history, stunning architecture, glorious terrain, delicious wines, traditional fare, and a color wheel of sea hues. We began our tour of the country in its capital city, Lisbon. Founded by the Phoenicians and one of Europe’s oldest fortifications, Lisbon was later expanded by the Romans, Moors, and Crusader knights. Their influences can still be experienced within this bustling city, where streets painted with the patina of time artfully beckon visitors past stately, statue-filled squares.

For repose, we chose the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel. The Tivoli brand has perfected hospitality for nine decades. Its journey began in 1933 with this hotel, which quickly became a local landmark and a haven for celebrities, heads of state, artists, and royalty. The grand entrance is intoxicating with its white marble and gleaming gold, while the lobby resembles a palace living room with vignettes of upholstered furniture meant for huddled discussions. The curated artwork lining the wall speaks to the hotel’s longstanding support of regional artisans.

Tivoli Avenida Liberdade is located on the city’s most renowned avenue, nicknamed Lisbon’s Champs-Elysées. Its central location makes it easy to explore this “city of seven hills,” each offering panoramic views of Lisbon’s red roofs and the Tagus River. I always love to discover a city on foot, however, if you prefer “wheels to heels,” hire an electric tuk-tuk for an exhilarating trip around the city. Or if you are looking for a short bypass to the hills, take a ride on the Santa Justa Lift. Designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a student of Gustave Eiffel, the creator of Paris’ greatest landmark, a trip on this neo-Gothic, wrought iron, vertical lift allows you to experience a bit of living history.

Whichever way you choose to explore, be sure to visit the charming neighborhoods nearby. Baixa Pombalina is home to a magnificent, harborside plaza—the Praça do Comércio. Next to Baixa Pombalina, you will find my favorite and Lisbon’s most elegant neighborhood—Chiado. A hub for shopping and theater, a stroll down Chiado’s narrow cobblestone streets makes for a lovely afternoon. I highly recommend a visit to Claus Porto, home to perfumes, soaps, and creams wrapped in Belle Epoque-inspired designs. These fragrant treasures make the perfect gift for those awaiting your return, while the shopkeeper’s tales of the brand’s 133-year-old history will beguile even the most reluctant shopper. Another long-lived Portuguese brand is Leitão & Irmão, a 200-year-old company that once served as the Crown Jeweler to Portuguese and Brazilian royalty. Today, its delicate jewelry and fine home accessories make for the most treasured of tokens.

A short walk from Chiado leads you to the Principe Real neighborhood, known for its 19th-century mansions boasting beautiful ironwork balconies and Lisbon’s signature blue and white tiled facades. The trendy neighborhood, filled with art galleries and fashionable shops, lives up to the translation of its name—“Royal Prince.”

Alfama, one of Lisbon’s oldest areas (with a history dating back to the Moors) is a delightful maze of steep narrow passageways lined with quaint shops carrying traditional crafts. In this neighborhood, you’ll find many of Lisbon’s most iconic buildings including the Lisbon Cathedral and St. George’s Castle. Alfama is also famous for its fado venues. Fado, translating to “fate,” is a traditional form of Portuguese music featuring poignant, moving lyrics accompanied by soulful guitar.

After a day of strolling Lisbon’s streets, visit the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade’s Anantara spa for the brand’s signature massage that combines Thai stretches and techniques (in honor of Anantara’s roots) with moderate pressure. Your limbs will be forever grateful.

Hungry? Portuguese cuisine embodies the country’s history of exploration, with flavors and recipes influenced by its outposts in India, China, Africa, and South America. If you are a bit tired from touring, Tivoli Avenida Liberdade boasts two outstanding restaurants. Cervejaria Liberdade is perched high above the treelined Avenida da Liberdade, offering the perfect vantage point for people watching between savory bites of seafood from the Portuguese coast. Don’t miss the traditional bacalhau (salted cod) or the fresh oysters. Another hotspot for fantastic cuisine is SEEN Lisboa by Olivier—a Portuguese, Brazilian, and Asian fusion eatery with art-deco décor, a hopping rooftop bar, a resident DJ, and stunning views of Lisbon.

Looking to dine off campus? Lisbon presents numerous exquisite eateries including Mini Bar, owned by Portugal’s famed Chef José Avillez. Located in Chiado and hidden behind a false “library” wall, nothing is what it seems at this inventive gastro pub. We “kicked” off the evening with Mini Bar’s famous Kinky Boots cocktail—a divine blend of Beefeater Gin, ginger, lemongrass, spearmint, and agave! We partook in all 6 “acts” on the menu, with each course presented in very unexpected ways, and left the establishment as huge fans of the talented Avillez.

Before leaving Lisbon, you must try its famous pastel de nata— custard tarts first created by Catholic monks in the 17th century. There is no shortage of places that offer these tasty, traditional treasures, and you’ll want to order a thick bica, the Portuguese espresso, to complete the experience.

SINTRA

Leaving the capital city, we journeyed to Sintra. For centuries, the eerily beautiful mist hovering over this mountaintop town has played a prominent role in romantic legends and mystical encounters. Once the beloved summer retreat of the Portuguese royal family, this charming village boasts more palaces per square foot than anywhere else in Europe.

We chose Palácio de Seteais—a gorgeous example of neoclassical architecture reminiscent of the Age of Enlightenment—as our resting place. This boutique hotel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site overlooking gorgeous gardens, a valley, and the Sintra Mountains. The gardens and citrus groves are made even more enchanting by the peacocks visiting from a neighboring property thought to be owned by a descendant of the tragically beautiful Austrian Empress Sisi.

One afternoon, we enjoyed an al fresco lunch on an expansive balcony, dining from Portuguese porcelain inspired by the hunt—a sport once popular with the king and his men. That evening’s dinner in the glamorous main dining room, nibbling on a perfectly prepared sea bass while surrounded by hand-painted frescoes, could only be described as an exquisite affair.

I was thrilled to realize that the palace is very popular with Americans—Lake Forest’s very own James Lovell stayed here— and out of the 25 weddings hosted at the property last year, 21 were American couples heading to the altar. The dreamy property is a draw for celebrities as well counting Johnny Depp, Bono, and Brad Pitt as guests who laid their heads to rest in this most perfect place.

I suggest staying a few days to enjoy the hotel, visit nearby palaces, and explore the picture-perfect downtown with its colorful buildings and winding stone walls draped in capes of emerald moss.

The area’s main attraction is the Pena Palace, a masterpiece of 19th-century Romanticism. The palace is set within the nearly 500-acre Parque da Pena, a dense woodland that features trees from all over the world—including California redwoods. This “wild” landscape was purposefully designed to complement the palace’s extravagant architecture—a madcap mishmash of design styles featuring colorful terraces with breathtaking Atlantic views and ornamental battlements adorned with mythological creatures.

If we had more time, I would have visited the Moorish Castle and the Quinta da Regaleira, known as the “Palace of Mystery” for its labyrinthian underground tunnels and hidden passages. However, we had to dash for our next destination—the coast.

THE ALGARVE

We visited two very different resorts in Portugal’s southernmost region known for its Atlantic beaches, golf resorts, and golden cliffs. The first, Tivoli Marina Vilamoura, is perfect for the traveler looking for beachside fun, a marina vibe, excellent cuisine, vast views, and an expansive gym and spa. Located next to the harbor, the resort is a gateway to oceanic adventures.

One afternoon, we visited Purobeach for lunch. Situated on the beach, the modern restaurant sports stunning ocean vistas. For dinner, we traded ocean scenes for marina views with a visit to Pepper’s Steakhouse. We paired our hearty, dry-aged steaks with the sommelier’s choice of Portuguese wines. Before the meal, we visited The Argo Bar for a drink. I chose the bar’s namesake cocktail, “The Argo,” named in honor of the vessel built for the Argonauts who searched for the Golden Fleece. One sip of this combination of cocoa grue-infused tequila, melon liqueur, grapefruit bitters, and soda made me feel like I had indeed found the coveted fleece.

The second Algarve destination, a cliffside haven riding on the Atlantic’s mesmerizing shoulders, is Tivoli Carvoeiro Resort. The recently refurbished retreat is within walking distance of the region’s biggest draw—the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail. The nearly 4-mile coastal route is known for its breathtaking views of golden cliffs set against turquoise water. We hiked the trail with a knowledgeable guide from Algarve Fun, who showed us fascinating formations— sinkholes, arches, and sea caves—created by centuries of ocean erosion.

Famished after our trek, we cleaned up and headed to The One Restaurant for a seafood bonanza! I devoured delicious tuna carpaccio, delicate scallops, and for my main dish, a delightful John Dory filet all paired with fabulous Portuguese wine. Delicioso!

I highly recommend the wine tasting with sommelier Francisco Meira, which is like a master class in regional wines. Portugal’s diverse landscape allows the country to produce a broad range of high-quality wines. We loved both ends of the spectrum from the light, delicate, and fizzy Vinho Verde (green wine) from the north to the more robust vinho do Porto (port) from the Douro Valley.

Portugal’s many paradises—each one brimming with history, culture, culinary adventure, five-star accommodations, and natural wonder—are sure to charm you. Enhance your experience by booking the Tivoli Timeless Tour—a tailor-made tour of the brand’s Portuguese properties designed to surprise and delight while creating unforgettable memories. Saúde!

Palácio de Seteais recently changed management from Tivoli to Valverde. For more information about Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Tivoli Marina Vilamoura, Tivoli Carvoeiro Resort, and the Tivoli Timeless Tour visit tivolihotels.com and 90years.tivolihotels.com.