THE WILD FRONTIER

Visit the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa to find “un-parroted” luxury in the heart of Jackson Hole.

Surrounded by five mountain ranges—the Tetons to the west, Gros Ventre to the east, Snake River to the southwest, Absaroka to the southeast, and Wind River to the south—Jackson Hole is a natural divot in the landscape. This dramatic topography is just one aspect of the area’s distinctive charm, which blends rugged wilderness with breathtaking views and a helping of Western hospitality.

From the moment our plane began its descent into Jackson Hole Airport (the nation’s only commercial airport located within a national park), we knew the scenery was going to be a vacation highlight. Jagged pine-clad peaks, crowned with billowy clouds and bathed in sunbeams, took our breath away. After we deplaned, we paused in front of the airport’s floor-to-ceiling windows to admire the Teton Range in all its glory.

On the drive to our hotel, the driver mentioned that our late March arrival coincided with the tail end of the ski season, the start of the elk migration, and the first grizzly bear sighting of the year! This offhand comment perfectly captured the myriad options one can pursue during a visit to Jackson Hole.

STAY
The Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa, a family-owned gem nestled at the foot of a butte, became our home for the next few days. A proud member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the Rusty Parrot has earned the prestigious AAA Four Diamond Award more than 20 times. Its prime location—a short drive from the airport, a stone’s throw from the National Elk Refuge and prime wildlife-viewing areas, and within walking distance to the town’s lively square—made it the perfect base for exploring.

In the late 1980s, Ron Harrison decided to build a hotel that would offer guests the comfort of home in a quiet corner of Jackson. On my visit, I learned the origin of the hotel’s whimsical name from Ron’s son, Brandon (now the property’s General Manager). If you want the scoop, you’ll have to visit the lodge as the family has a rule that guests can only hear the story in person from Ron or one of his family members.

That spirit of personal connection became the hallmark of the Rusty Parrot—and it’s one the Harrison family carried forward even after tragedy struck. In 2019, after nearly 30 years in operation, the hotel was destroyed by fire. Rebuilt by the family, the resurrected Rusty Parrot is a more luxurious version of its former self, boasting elegant accommodations, a serene spa, and an award-winning restaurant. From local art and cast-iron cowboy lamps to the namesake parrot hanging in the hotel foyer, every element is personally curated by the family.

With only 40 thoughtfully designed guest rooms, the Rusty Parrot feels intimate and personal. Every hook, towel, and accessory is placed with intention, with careful attention paid to the smallest detail—for example, the soaps and lotions are absolutely divine. Each room features a stone fireplace, perfect for unwinding after a long day. On the third floor, perched above a babbling creek, the wildlife viewing deck offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Here, guests can use the binoculars available at the front desk to scan the area for four-legged friends. Don’t miss the freshly baked cookies in the library—a new plate arrives every afternoon at 3:00 p.m., adding to the hotel’s homey ambiance.

A few minutes’ walk from the Rusty Parrot is Jackson’s charming Town Square with its iconic elk antler arches—a great photo opportunity. We strolled around the square on its wooden boardwalks, popping into art galleries and local shops like Jackson Mercantile, where a giant buffalo guards the entrance (another photo op). The store is a treasure trove of mountain-themed gifts, from quirky taxidermy to huckleberry-flavored goodies—I even spotted buckshot Christmas lights. For a unique experience, we visited Wyoming Whiskey’s tasting room, where we sampled four distinct whiskeys for just $10. Don’t forget to bring a bottle and a taste of Wyoming home.

Snow King Mountain, visible from anywhere in downtown Jackson, looms large on the horizon. A popular spot for young skiers and Olympic hopefuls, the mountain pulses with energy during the winter months.

ADVENTURES
Jackson Hole Mountain, just a 15-minute drive from Town Square, is the ultimate destination for skiing enthusiasts, particularly those looking for advanced terrain. The Rusty Parrot offers a daily shuttle there during ski season, making access both easy and convenient.

Expert skiers tackle even greater heights in the wild as evidenced by ski tracks at the very top of the Tetons—this type of skiing is for the true thrill-seeker.

On our first day, we had planned to take the Elk Refuge Wagon Ride, but with the early migration and lack of snow, we opted instead for a wildlife safari with Vinnie from Great Western Expeditions. We were thrilled to spot a variety of wildlife, including several moose, whose towering frames left us in awe. One of Jackson Hole’s most beloved large ungulates, moose average around six feet tall and can weigh up to 1,000 pounds. While they appear slow and docile, when agitated or threatened, they are capable of confrontation and can run up to 35 miles an hour—so, no selfies, please!

We also observed a flock of ewes delicately descending a rocky outcropping, making their way toward a lounging “bachelor party” of bighorn sheep. Massive herds of elk and bison roamed just north of the Refuge. A memorable moment occurred when we saw a bald eagle scavenging a “winter kill,” a term Vinnie used to describe creatures that perish from the season’s harsh elements. Vinnie explained that hunting large prey can carry a risk of grave injury, so when the elements offer a meal, the animals feast.

For lunch, we ventured to Split Creek Ranch, an extraordinary 350-acre property with lush cottonwood trees, flowing streams, and sweeping views of the Tetons, that offers a unique setting for outdoor adventures, weddings, and special events. We had a chance to dine inside one of the ranch’s “igloos,” followed by snowshoeing and fireside s’mores.

The next morning, we were off on another wildlife tour, this time with Bo from EcoTour Adventures. The “prom roof” of our vehicle allowed us to stand on the seats and get an elevated view of the area, offering a unique sighting of a moose and her calf. Bo said that they probably picked a more “public” location for safety reasons, affording us a close vantage point. We also saw huge herds of elk and a graceful pack of coyotes—I was grateful my Pomeranian wasn’t with me! Although we were on the heels of an elusive wolf pack known as the “Jackson Five,” we didn’t find them. As Bo said, seeing a wolf pack is like “catching lightning in the palm of your hand.” It can happen, but not on this trip.

Following our tour, we enjoyed a soak at the Astoria Hot Springs, where the naturally fed mineral pools perched above the emerald-hued Snake River provided a perfect way to relax. With bald eagles soaring overhead, our minds, bodies, and souls were restored.

We didn’t get a chance to visit Yellowstone on this trip, but I highly recommend having the front desk assist with a tour. America’s first National Park is home to geysers, gorgeous forests, and amazing wildlife! There are so many activities for all seasons, and each room at the Rusty Parrot contains a wonderfully informative guide.

SPA
After a day of exploring, the Body Sage Spa is the perfect place to unwind. I treated myself to the Sage Facial, a personalized treatment that restored my skin to a healthy, balanced state after months of cold, Midwestern weather. Two of my travel companions, fresh from a day on the slopes, opted for the Deep Release Massage and emerged feeling completely rejuvenated.

DINING & IMBIBING
Dining at the Rusty Parrot’s Wild Sage Restaurant was a highlight of our trip. Executive Chef Hugo Goodwin, formerly of the prestigious Yellowstone Club, creates dishes using fresh, seasonal ingredients that showcase the best of the region. The restaurant’s AAA Diamond award is a testament to Chef Hugo’s skill and creativity. We loved the food (and wine list) so much that we dined there three out of our four nights.

On our one night off-property, we visited Trio, an American bistro in downtown Jackson, where we enjoyed wood-fired pizzas and a delicious array of appetizers (Shishito peppers are a must). Trio is owned by two local chefs, who have a flair for innovation and a passion for great food. At the end of the meal, we spun a giant wheel for a chance at a discount. Our spin earned us 10 percent off the bill—a fun and theatrical end to a great meal.

For lunch, we popped into Jackson Drug, an old family establishment on Town Square’s northeast corner dating back to 1919 and famous for its homemade ice cream, malts, and burgers. Another lunch spot favorite was Hatch Taqueria and Tequilas. It is a wonderful venue for lunch after a day of wildlife viewing. Famished, we devoured chips and guacamole and enchiladas topped with a delicious salsa verde. Next time, we’ll have to try the tequila.

On our last night, we stopped by the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, where we sipped martinis atop saddles while taking in the lively atmosphere, complete with knotty pine walls and taxidermy. Enjoying landmark status since 1937, the honkytonk has hosted many famous musicians over the years, including a recent appearance by Kevin Costner and his band.

Whether chasing the thrills of Jackson Hole’s legendary slopes, hoping to spot wildlife in its natural habitat, indulging in outstanding cuisine, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat into nature, Jackson Hole caters to adventure-seekers, wildlife enthusiasts, foodies, and history buffs alike. For all these travelers, the Rusty Parrot Lodge & Spa offers more than just luxurious accommodations; it provides a rich, immersive experience in the heart of Jackson. With its warmth, charm, and impeccable service, it is the ideal base for exploring this breathtaking corner of Wyoming.

For more information, visit rustyparrot.com, greatwesternexpeditions.com, jhecotouradventures.com, bistrotrio.com, jacksondrug.com, and milliondollarcowboybar.com.