THE SPIRITED LIFE 

Seventeen years ago, scholar Dr. Sonat Birnecker Hart traded academia for alchemy—launching KOVAL, now one of the largest independent, female-owned craft distilleries in the U.S.

On paper, Drs. Sonat Birnecker Hart and Robert Birnecker don’t come across as a couple who’d throw caution to the wind. A professor of German cultural history, Jewish Studies, and German literature, Sonat’s CV includes teaching positions at Goucher College and Humboldt-Universität of Berlin. A career diplomat, Robert’s postings included Deputy Press Secretary for the Austrian Embassy in Washington. But when they found themselves at a crossroads, they did a hard pivot from the life that they knew and launched KOVAL, the first distillery to open in Chicago since the 1880s.

“I was pregnant with our first child, and we were questioning if settling down in the D.C. area was what we wanted,” recalls Sonat, who was raised in Wrigleyville and Evanston. “We chose to start a distillery in Chicago because it was our way of starting the family chapter of our lives by working together, living close to family in a city we adore, while making something special with ‘Made in Chicago’ on every bottle.”

“From the start, we wanted KOVAL to reflect our values,” says Sonat. “We source locally and use only organic grains from Midwestern farmers who practice sustainable agriculture. Supporting our community and the environment has always been as important to us as creating exceptional spirits.”

Having grown up helping his grandparents around their distillery in his native Austria, Robert was familiar with the art and science of distilling. Launching their own operation from scratch, however, was daunting. It meant not only giving up the security of established careers but investing every penny the couple had. “Nevertheless,” shares Sonat, “our parents were rooting for us, extremely supportive and helpful. My dad was boxing up spirits into his 80s, and my mom was peeling tons of ginger so we could make a liqueur.”

Today, KOVAL is an esteemed brand that has earned more than 100 awards for its exceptional bourbon, rye, gin, and liqueurs. When KOVAL launched in 2008, there were fewer than 50 grain-to-bottle distilleries (meaning liquor made from locally sourced ingredients and produced start-to-finish at the same facility) in the country. “In general, it was difficult to navigate the industry as a craft brand,” relates Sonat. “There was little infrastructure, little knowledge of how to enter the industry, so we started a consulting company for the spirits industry, Kothe Distilling Technologies, and became manufacturers’ representatives for numerous equipment companies. We have now educated more than 3,500 people in our workshops, with people coming from around the world. We have also set up more than 250 turnkey distilleries across the globe, including in Uganda, Japan, and most recently, Belize. Initially, there was some skepticism among distributors and consumers, but craft spirits have become essential to the industry, and have certainly brought more creativity, diversity, and regionality to spirits in America.”

In the early days, Sonat and Robert worked side-by-side, hands-on in the distillery. “As we grew, we split up the tasks based on our strengths,” explains Sonat. “Since KOVAL was the first distillery in Chicago since the mid-1800s, some laws needed updating. I lobbied to get laws passed to make it possible to have a craft distillery in Illinois, with allowances such as being able to retail on-site, offer tours, and tastings. As president, I worked on building up a distribution network and finding ways to market our products without a budget. Robert, as Master Distiller and CEO, worked on making the product and focused on consulting, so that we could grow our business, while helping the industry grow as a whole.”

This past summer, Gallup—which has been tracing the nation’s drinking habits for 90 years—released data indicating that fewer Americans drink than in the past, and those who do are consuming less. It’s a trend that has been growing over the past decade, and the Birneckers have “taken it as a cue,” says Sonat, to enter the Ready to Drink space with their canned cocktails—Bourbon Highball and Cranberry Spritz. And, as surveys suggest that consumers who do enjoy a drink are opting for top-shelf products, Sonat and Robert are giving special attention to their ultra-premium line, Fresh and Winnow, which includes a 10-year-old rye, two gin offerings, and an eight-year single malt whiskey.

“We have also worked to acquire a Public Place of Amusement license at the distillery to create more programming for people looking for things to do and ways to come together with other members of the community. What I love about being in the liquor business is that spirits are great for fostering conversation, bringing people together, and in the words of my late Aunt Susan, being in the mood to ‘up with fun!’ These are some of the things that make life worth living. Alcohol is not required to achieve any of them, but it can sure add a little something.”

For more information, visit koval-distillery.com.