TEMPURA-BATTERED CHEESE CURDS WITH LAVENDER & HONEY 

Fresh from the cheesemaking vats, cheese curds deliver a signature squeak when bitten and are prized for a fresh, milky, delicately mild flavor. When coated in crumbs or batter and deep-fried, squeaky curds transform into crisp-shelled, melty morsels that are hard to resist. Fried cheese curds are a beloved snack at Camp Wandawega in Elkhorn, Wisconsin, which sources the treat through its Chicago culinary partner All Together Now. (Check out this issue’s fashion feature for fabulous images of this charming camp). While cheddar cow’s milk curds are a commonplace choice, both All Together Now and this recipe opt for goat’s milk curds. Besides making the dish extra creamy and delicious, the choice of goat milk curds recalls the treat’s earliest known roots, dating back to ancient Rome. The oldest surviving work of Latin prose, De Agri Cultura (On Farming), written by Cato the Elder in 160 B.C., included a recipe for globuli, little globs of goat or sheep’s milk curds rolled in flour, fried in hot fat, drizzled with honey, and sprinkled with poppy seeds. Our fried curds are also drizzled with honey, plus a fragrant sprinkling of herbs and lavender. For a light crust, our tempura batter fries up quickly, giving the curds a crispy shell without distracting from the cheese. And instead of the typical use of beer in the batter, we use Lemon LaCroix. For the best results, use very fresh curds. Goat milk curds can be purchased at LaClare Creamery’s Cheese Shoppe at W2994 County Road HH in Malone, Wisconsin (call 920-670-0051 for availability). For the meltiest interiors, eat the morsels as soon as they come out of the fryer basket.

INGREDIENTS (Serves 4 to 6)

For the curds

• High-heat oil (rice-bran, peanut, or grapeseed) for deep-fat fryer
• 2 pounds fresh goat’s milk curds (or substitute fresh cheddar cow’s milk curds)

For dipping before coating in batter

• 1 cup cornstarch

For the batter

• 1 1/4 cups cake flour sifted with 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• Pinch of salt
• 1 1/2 cups Lemon LaCroix sparkling water (or plain seltzer water)

For the garnish

• 1/2 cup honey
• 1 teaspoon each finely snipped fresh rosemary and thyme leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh lavender blossoms

METHOD

Follow manufacturer instructions to fill deep-fat fryer with oil. Preheat to 360 degrees. Place 1 cup cornstarch in wide, shallow bowl. Set aside. In a second bowl, whisk 1 tablespoon cornstarch with 1 1/4 cups cake flour and a pinch of salt. Whisk in sparkling water. Individually roll cheese curds in cornstarch, shaking off excess starch. Dip coated curds in batter (the batter will be thin) and add to fryer basket. Fry 4 or 5 curds at a time, being careful not to crowd the basket. Fry about 2 to 3 minutes per batch, until bubbling has subsided and fried curds are golden. Remove to paper toweling to blot oil. Place in serving dish. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with snipped herb leaves and lavender blossoms. Serve immediately.