SHRIMP AND ANDOUILLE GUMBO

When my family lived in Seabrook, Texas, walking down to the wharf to get fresh shrimp right off the boats was a regular thing. Putting every bit of that delicious shellfish to use, we’d make rich stock from the heads, tails, and shells—then add shrimp, peppers, onions, herbs, tomatoes, and andouille to make the finished dish.

Originating in Louisiana, gumbo is a melting pot of cultural provenance. Its Creole and Cajun roots draw from African, French, Spanish, and Native American culinary traditions. And there are countless variations.

Because the word “gumbo” derives from ki ngombo, the West African term for okra, we’ve included okra in ours. The roux, of course, is French. And filé powder (dried and ground sassafras leaves) came to the dish courtesy of the Choctaw Native Americans. If including the filé, don’t stir it in until right before serving.

INGREDIENTS

For the shrimp stock:
• Heads, tails, and shells from 3 pounds of shrimp
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 bay leaf
• 10 peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon thyme leaves
• 6 1/2 cups water

For the gumbo:
• 3 pounds fresh raw shrimp (heads, tails, and shells reserved for stock)
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• Small bunch thyme, stems discarded and leaves minced to make 1 tablespoon
• 1 head garlic (about 8 cloves), peeled and finely minced
• 1 large onion, peeled and medium diced
• 1 large green bell pepper, stem and core discarded, diced to make 1 cup
• 1 large red bell pepper, stem and core discarded, diced to make 1 cup
• 4 stalks celery, cleaned and diced to make 2 cups
• 1/2 cup flour
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
• 2–3 juicy tomatoes, diced to make 2 cups
• 12-ounce andouille sausage, cut into 1-inch slices
• 6 cups shrimp stock
• 2 cups fresh okra, sliced into rounds
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 tablespoon filé powder (optional)
• 1 small bunch green onions or garlic chives, diced for garnish

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METHOD

Prep shrimp:

Remove heads, tails, and shells from shrimp and place in a colander. Rinse and place in a large Dutch oven. Now, place the peeled shrimp in the colander, devein, and rinse well. Transfer shrimp to a bowl. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Add thyme and 1 teaspoon chopped garlic. Set aside.

Make shrimp stock:

Place Dutch oven with heads, tails, and shells over medium-high heat with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Press down on shells and sauté, stirring and pressing for 4 minutes. Add bay leaf, peppercorns, thyme leaves, and 6 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer 6 more minutes. Remove from heat. Pour mixture through a strainer into a large bowl, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids. Set stock aside.

Make gumbo:

Place the Dutch oven back on the cooktop. Add 1/2 cup olive oil and heat on medium. Add onion, bell peppers, and celery and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle flour over vegetables. Cook 5 more minutes, scraping bottom of pot. Stir in tomato paste, smoked paprika, cayenne, and remaining garlic. Cook 2 minutes more, stirring. Add tomatoes and andouille sausage and cook 2 more minutes.

Pour in shrimp stock and reduce heat to medium-low. Scrape bottom of pot and simmer 30 minutes. Season gumbo with salt and pepper to taste.

Stir in okra and shrimp. Cook 5 more minutes, just until shrimp are pink and firm and okra is bright green and tender. Remove from heat. Just before serving, stir in filé powder, if using. Serve hot on its own or spooned over rice. Garnish with green onions or garlic chives.