SCOTTISH SOJOURN

On a cool, misty evening last fall, while stand-ing on the shore of Scotland’s Loch Lomond watching dusk’s descent, a stanza from the Scottish folksong “The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond” echoed in my mind—“where in soft purple hue, the highland hills we view, and the moon coming out in the gloaming.”

I found myself here after a 90-minute trip from Edinburgh through West Dunbartonshire on ancient, narrow roads bordered by moss-covered stone walls. The drive was my first introduction to the country’s charm—from my driver’s lilting brogue to the views of farmland dotted by sheep to glimpses of grand manors crowned by chimneys spouting curling wisps of smoke.

After entering through an impressive stone gate and driving around a bend, we arrived at the five-star Cameron House Hotel, a grand baronial estate perched proudly along Loch Lomond— Great Britain’s largest stretch of fresh water, known as the “Queen of Scottish Lochs” and the gateway to the Highlands.

Originally built in the 1700s, Cameron House stands on 400 acres of woodlands and is home to championship golf courses, a gorgeous spa, and deluxe accommodations ranging from expansive suites in a mansion dubbed the Auld House to stand-alone cottages overlooking The Carrick Golf Course. No wonder dignitaries and celebrities have long found sanctuary here—Sir Winston Churchill was a regular, and Cristiano Ronaldo and the Portuguese football team were in residence when we visited.

My suite, the Inchcruin, named in honor of one of Loch Lomond’s many islands, sat just above the entrance to Cameron House and offered beautiful views of the lake. Recently renovated by the renowned Scottish design studio Timorous Beasties, the décor combined rich Scottish fabrics, furnishings, and artwork with just the right touch of modern luxury. Sheathed in Carrera marble from floor to ceiling, the expansive bathroom sported a rain shower and a grand bathtub that became my nightly retreat.

In addition to a focus on architecture and design, sustainability plays a key role in Cameron House’s operations. The hotel is committed to reducing its environmental impact and was the 2024 recipient of the Green Tourism Gold award honoring its deep commitment to preserving Scotland’s natural beauty.

Scotland is an outdoorsman’s paradise, and Cameron House has activities aplenty. My first adventure, a lesson in falconry, brought me face-to-feather with Scotland’s wildest residents. Graham, an expert falconer, introduced our band of merry travelers to several fine feathered fellows including Sorin, a charming barn owl with an impressive head swivel, and Artemis, a golden eagle so mighty I had to brace myself for his landing. I will admit it was a bit terrifying to have a giant bird of prey fly toward my outstretched arm, but my fears were outweighed by the thrill of interacting with these brilliantly trained raptors.

Another signature experience is the 4×4 Land Rover Defender Adventure (4x4adventures-scotland.com), a white-knuckle, off-road tour of the Loch Lomond area. Our knowledgeable and kilted guides, Ross and Iain, taught us Scottish terms like “glen” (valley) and educated us about the wonder of sphagnum moss, nature’s flash flood deterrent. After ascending a steep rocky path, we paused for a photo op, but the dramatic landscape was obscured by a cloudy veil of mist. Ross shared a bit of Scottish wisdom: “If you don’t like the Scottish weather, just wait for 10 minutes.” Sure enough, the clouds parted to reveal the Highlands in all their glory.

Taking the wheel on our descent, while Ross called out alternating commands “clutch, brake, and gear,” I had us barreling down the rugged hills and into the ancient Mulea Forest, where emerald moss drapes every branch and rocks peek through streams like stony sentinels.

We ended the adventure with a stop at a local farm to see the legendary Highland cattle. These woolly, sweet-tempered creatures with their ginger-colored, bushy bangs, are a beloved Scottish icon symbolizing the country’s strength, endurance, and rustic beauty. You’ll find these gentle giants’ faces emblazoned on everything from sweaters and coffee mugs to ties and socks.

After traversing the terrain, we took to the skies in Cameron House’s seaplane—the only one of its kind in the UK. Soaring above the loch provided unparalleled views of peat and fern-covered hills that rise and fall like waves.

After land and sky, we ventured out on the waters of Loch Lomond on the Celtic Warrior, the hotel’s luxury cruiser. Leaving from the property’s marina, we glided across the loch catching views of fairytale castles nestled in the mist-shrouded hills and indulged in free-flowing champagne.

All the escapades built up our appetites. Fortunately, Cameron House offers something for every taste. The Cameron Grill presents a buffet breakfast to start off the day—the traditional haggis was a fan favorite. Steak lovers will want to return to the Cameron Grill for dinner; the menu offers Scottish grass-fed steaks that are dry-aged for a minimum of 21–45 days. For dinner starters, I highly recommend the pan-seared Orkney scallops with rhubarb chutney. For dessert, try the Cameron Pink Lady Apple Tarte Tatin with Madagascan Vanilla ice cream (the creamiest ice cream I have ever encountered – de-lish!).

Afternoon Tea in The Lobby Bar was a delightful way to experience the most British of traditions. We nibbled on tea sandwiches and savory scones while sipping a perfectly steeped cup of tea. Feeling festive, we added a glass of Veuve Clicquot and agreed that everything tastes better with bubbles.

If you are in the mood for something more casual, visit The Tavern for the best burger with a side of truffle fries. For a chic repast, La Vista serves up delicious Italian fare that is only surpassed by the sweeping lake views through the restaurant’s floor-to-ceiling windows.

Looking for a nightcap? The famous Great Scots Bar has more than 250 whiskeys to explore, along with a curated list of wines, spirits, and cocktails. Images of Scottish icons like Rod Stewart and Sean Connery line the walls so you will be able to say that you drank with Scotland’s greats. When you aren’t scanning the walls for a familiar face, relax on the lakeview deck outfitted with heaters and cozy blankets.

My final day at Cameron House featured a visit to the spa. The Spa offers a thermal & hydro experience that includes an array of saunas, steam rooms, and pools. Soaking in the rooftop infinity hot tub, as I watched the lake glisten and the pines sway, was a serene experience. I topped off my visit with an ESPA Express Facial, the perfect complement to my afternoon indulgence. Scotland should be top on your travel wish list. It’s a gem too good to miss. If you’d like to extend your trip, the historic cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow are a short drive from Cameron House. As my bags were tucked into the car, the tartan-clad doorman bid me farewell with a cheerful “Haste ye back!” I surely will heed his advice and return soon to Scotland where adventure beckons from the Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond.

For more information, visit cameronhouse.co.uk.