OMAN—THE HEIGHT OF LUXURY

On the southeast coast of the Arabian Peninsula, where the Persian Gulf meets the Arabian Sea, is found the earthly paradise of Oman. In ancient times, Oman was renowned for its frankincense, fishing, and metalworking. Now, its spectacular landscapes, rich culture, and heartfelt hospitality have made the country a must for discerning travelers.

The late and much beloved Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al-Said led the modernization of the country and paved the way for the creation of Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort.

The resort’s location—perched on the rocky shoulders of the Sayq Plateau and blending seamlessly into the fabled Green Mountain—gives it the distinction of being the highest fivestar resort in the Middle East and amongst the highest in the world. The resort’s name is a homage to the Green Mountain, which derives its distinct green hue due to its rich content of iron and chromium. In the rainy winter months, this appearance is enhanced by the verdant shrubs that pop out of the mountain’s craggy surface.

On Turkish Airlines we flew from Chicago to Muscat via Istanbul. Disembarking from the aircraft, we immediately admired the all-white traditional dress of the Omani men who don simple white gowns (dishdashas) with their heads crowned by embroidered caps (kummahs). Our driver met us for the two-hour drive into the mountains. Once difficult to reach, the area is now accessible via a superhighway that leads directly from Oman’s capital into the heart of the mountains. Note, if you are driving on your own you will reach a checkpoint where guards will not let you pass without a four-wheel vehicle. Apparently, many unwitting tourists had to be rescued after venturing into the mountains without the proper automotive power.

Upon arrival at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, our villa host guided us through a labyrinthian lantern-lit pathway to our two-bedroom, three-bathroom private villa. A heavy wooden door opened to reveal a foyer that led to an expansive living/dining room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a private pool enclosed by three ochre walls that boasted explosions of magenta bougainvillea. The large bedrooms, both en-suite, flanked either end of the open floor plan. The master bath was an area unto itself, housing a huge circular shower with a 12-foot ceiling from which hung the largest rain shower head I have ever seen. Beyond the shower was a deep soaking tub encircled by tub-to-ceiling windows that overlooked a private walled garden. For changing, carved sliding wood doors concealed his and her dressing rooms. Throughout the villa, an array of elaborate metal chandeliers, sconces, and carved cedar doors provided a visual celebration of Omani artisanship.

The next morning, we saluted the sunrise from “Diana’s Point,” an outlook named in honor of Princess Diana who visited the location before the hotel was built and fell in love with the view. After several photos of the sunrise’s vivid pink and orange hues, it was off to breakfast where the bountiful buffet offered a variety of local cuisine—spicy curries, omelets, pastries, porridges, and an assortment of salads and cheese accompanied by pressed juices, teas, and delicious coffees. A bit of something for every taste, and the perfect fuel for a day of activities.

After breakfast, my husband and daughter tackled rock climbing aka a perilous adventure where one hangs off the side of a cliff and engages in a delicate dance between nooks and crannies appearing on the face of the steep rock. This trek is one of the highest climbing routes in the Middle East and provides intrepid travelers with a unique way to experience Green Mountain. My daughter loved the experience so much that she signed up the next day for the “extreme” version that included a jaunt across the Middle East’s highest suspension “bridge” (a tightrope really). I was so relieved when she and her guide (a former member of Omani special forces) emerged from the side of the cliff. Smiling ear to ear, Redding exclaimed, “Mom, you do know that the best view comes after the hardest climb.” While I am sure that statement is true, I chose not to test its veracity.

On another morning, we explored three archaeological sites and traditional villages. Following in the footsteps of our skilled guide, we scaled up, up, and up the side of a mountain for a glorious view of two crumbling ancient villages. Nestled into the rocky contours of the cliff, near a source of water, and built of mud and clay, these villages had housed generations of mountain inhabitants before they moved to the “greener pastures” funded by the country’s oil-driven economic boom. On the trek, our guide pointed out several fossils formed when these mountains were once the sea’s floor. This area has become a source for geo-tourism as the region’s universe of fossils is easily viewed against the dark rock.

In one village, we walked along the ancient falaj water irrigation system bringing fresh spring water to cliff-hanging terrace farms. Treading carefully along the semi-treacherous path, we passed fig and pomegranate trees, bushels of jasmine and lavender, and blankets of pink roses. This olfactory extravaganza was enhanced by the canyon views of lush fruit orchards cascading down terraced slopes and descending into the deep valleys. The path meandered through villages and valleys ending at an ancient staircase so steep it seemed to lead to the heavens. We chose not to ascend but watched in awe as an elderly farmer toting a bushel of leafy greens swiftly scaled the steps.

Our April visit coincided with the bloom of the rare Damask rose. This rose blooms just a few months of the year and is used to create the region’s world-famous rose water. We were lucky to visit the home of a rose water proprietor who invited us in for dates and tea. He shared the traditional technique of distilling rosewater using a mud oven called “Al-duhjan,” a vessel called “Al-burmah,” and a copper bowl to capture the treasured liquid. This ancient technique is still being used by farmers today.

After we returned to the resort, I headed to the Anantara spa. As the spa menu is wide and varied, my decision might have been difficult but our day’s adventures influenced my choice of the 90-minute “Rose Rescue Ritual.” In a tranquil setting befitting Anantara’s elevated standard of spas, I felt renewed after experiencing the soothing, balancing, and hydrating qualities of the rose petals and luxuriant oil. It was a relaxing lesson in this country’s centuries-long love affair with the fragrant flora.

We began most of our evenings by watching the spectacular sunset wash the canyon in pigment. Nature’s extraordinary show was followed by a feast at Al Maisan or Bella Vista. Perched high above the canyon, Al Maisan specializes in Southeast Asian, Indian, and Arab specialties. This eatery serves delicious global cuisine with ingredients that are freshly harvested from the Arabian Sea and local farms. We chose Bella Vista when we craved traditional Italian fare with a contemporary flair. At either venue, we savored delicious dishes while transfixed by the incredible views.

As our trip continued, we descended from the mountain’s heights and journeyed to the southern coastal city of Salalah. The city is set in an environment of white beaches, coconut palms, gardens of lush vegetation, and camels, camels, and more camels. During our April visit, the landscape appeared a bit “desert-like.” However, our guide explained that during the monsoon season (June to August) waterfalls appear on mountainsides, the terrain is carpeted in emerald green, and large lakes emerge in meadows attracting a variety of brightly colored migratory birds. We all agreed that we would return one day to see this terrestrial transformation.

Anantara’s Al Baleed Resort Salalah is a quick drive from the airport and is nestled between an expansive white sand beach and a freshwater lagoon. In true Anantara fashion, the accommodations were stunning. A private gate opened to the crown jewel of our two-bedroom villa—a courtyard with a pool, two “day beds,” our own private beach, lounge chairs, and a seating area—all with views of the lagoon and Al Baleed Archeological Park. My husband celebrated a birthday on this trip, and one day we arrived to find that the villa had been festively decorated in his honor—just one example of Anantara’s attention to detail.

The resort boasts an endless array of daily physical activities— think beach yoga, Thai boxing, tennis, and intense workouts with a trainer. Experiences ranging from mobile camping in the Empty Quarter to an encounter with the Omani dolphin to traditional cooking lessons with the resort’s chef will satisfy those who seek an appreciation of Oman’s beauty whether it be on land, sea, or in the kitchen. Kids will love the pools, beaches, kids club, and camel rides along the pristine beach. For those who crave a calmer itinerary, lounging by the pool or visiting the spectacular spa are your tickets to paradise—I highly recommend the divine frankincense massage.

Excited to learn more about the country’s history—both natural and archaeological—we opted for a guided tour of Salalah. What an experience! In one short day, we visited soaring cliffs overlooking cerulean waters, walked the paths of long-ago trade routes (think 300 B.C.), traversed century-old ruins, and learned all about frankincense.

The Wadi Darbat (the Darbat Valley) was a tour highlight. This valley area was teeming with camels, donkeys, and cows (the latter two are darling miniature versions of their U.S. brethren), and we often ran into “camel jams.” When these long-legged fellows chose to cross the road, we had no option but to enjoy the view. The camels were equally fun to view from a distance; the sight of hundreds of camels walking nose to tail against the backdrop of the colorful and rugged mountains was truly breathtaking.

While the camels were so entertaining, the Wadi Darbat’s natural landscape, with its shimmering emerald pools (the color is derived from the mountain’s mineral content and appears almost effervescent) and expansive views of the coastline, was the real star of our tour.

We ended our day at the stunning ruins at the Al Baleed Archaeological Site dating back to 850 A.D. (and built on ruins dating back to the Iron Age) and a tour of the Museum of the Land of Frankincense. I have always been fascinated by frankincense’s long role in human history from the Christian tale of the three kings’ gifts for baby Jesus to the current-day essential oil trend touting its healing powers. And here I was on Omani soil learning about this ancient trade in a port city dating back to 300 B.C. Truly a one-of-a-kind experience.

For those travelers who wish to travel well but also wish to follow paths less taken, Anantara’s dual properties are the ideal destinations. From mountain top to sandy beach, Anantara’s curated experiences immerse you in Omani culture while its resorts envelop you in breathtaking luxury. Embrace your spirit of discovery with a journey to Oman.

For more information, visit anantara.com.