MUSSELS IN WHITE WINE + PERNOD

Classic preparations of moules marinières (sailor-style mussels) go back centuries in France and Belgium, requiring nothing more than mussels, shallots, white wine, and butter. Chefs worldwide have tweaked the traditional recipe, adding herbs, sometimes cream, and, in my favorite rendition, garlic, gorgeously ripe tomatoes, and Pernod.

Pernod, the anise flavored French liqueur, goes so well with mussels that I’ve never been able to return to the “just with wine” version. I’ve specified 3 pounds of mussels here, allowing 1 pound for each person for dinner, or there’s plenty for 6 guests if serving as an appetizer. Be sure to have crusty baguettes to soak up the buttery broth. Or, do as the Belgians do and serve with fries and good beer.

Serves 3 for dinner; 6 for appetizers

INGREDIENTS

• 3 pounds mussels, scrubbed clean under running water
• 1 1/2 cups dry white wine (I used pinot grigio)
• Small bunch fresh thyme sprigs
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 3 medium shallots, peeled and sliced thin
• 3 cloves garlic, minced to make 2 tablespoons
• 1 large (or 2 small) very ripe heirloom tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons Pernod
• Small bunch fresh parsley leaves, minced to make ¼ cup

METHOD

Clean mussels
Remove and discard any “beards” (the byssal threads that mussels use to anchor to surfaces) by pulling the threads firmly toward the hinge of the shell until they release. Once well-scrubbed, place mussels in a large bowl of water and rinse again until water runs clear.

Steam mussels
Add the wine to a heavy-bottomed 4-quart enameled pot or Dutch oven. Add mussels and thyme sprigs and cover pot. Heat to boiling over medium high heat. Immediately reduce heat to low and simmer for five minutes until the mussels have opened. Discard any that haven’t opened. Using tongs, remove mussels and thyme sprigs from pot and keep warm. Do not discard cooking liquid. Pour the liquid from the pot through a fine mesh strainer to remove any grit and set aside to make sauce.

Prepare sauce
In a sauté pan over medium heat, add butter and shallots. Sauté shallots for three minutes until softened. Add garlic and sauté two minutes more. Add the reserved mussel cooking liquid. Roughly break the ripe tomato into pieces and add to the pan. Simmer until the liquid has reduced a bit. Skim off any foam. Stir in 3 tablespoons of Pernod and half of the minced parsley. Simmer for two more minutes.

To serve
Spoon a bit of sauce into three (or six) serving bowls. Divide mussels between the bowls. Top with the rest of the sauce, tomatoes, garlic, and shallots. Sprinkle with the rest of the parsley. Serve hot with crusty bread for dunking and have bowls on hand for discarded shells.