MIRLITON GRATIN WITH HERBS AND BACON 

From kabocha to butternut, and hubbard to acorn, I’ve always enjoyed the many delicious squash varieties that peak in the fall. But I didn’t learn of their lovely cousin, mirliton squash, until recently. Shaped like a pear with one end clenched like a closed fist, this bright green, mild-flavored squash was first grown as an ancient Mesoamerican crop. That explains why most people know it as the chayote—from the indigenous Nahuatl word chayohtli, meaning spiny gourd or squash. However, the squash goes by many other names worldwide: cho-cho in Jamaica, christophine in the French Caribbean, and choko in Australia. With a pleasant flavor and a good dose of fiber and vitamin C, the squash works well in this gratin, enhanced with onion, garlic, and herbs, enriched with bacon and cheese sauce, and topped with a crunchy herbed panko. Because mirliton has such a high-water content (94 percent), I strain the cooked squash several times before incorporating it into the gratin. As a nice side for special fall meals, I portion some of the gratin into individual ramekins, tucking the rest into a casserole for those who want extra. But you can also just use one large casserole dish. One important note: When peeling and cutting the squash, be sure to wear kitchen gloves. Like some other varieties of squash, raw mirliton releases a sticky fluid that will coat your skin and is difficult to rinse off.

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS

• 6 10-ounce mirliton (chayote) squash, peeled and halved top to bottom lengthwise, then cubed to make 2 quarts loosely packed
• 2 quarts water
• 8 ounces good quality (no nitrate) bacon
• 1 yellow onion, core and peel discarded, chopped to make 1 1/2 cups
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole milk
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• 4-ounce chunk of Gouda cheese, grated
• 2-ounces cream cheese
• Leaves from one small bunch of fresh thyme to make 2 tablespoons, divided
• Leaves from one small bunch of fresh oregano, minced, to make 2 tablespoons, divided
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
• Fresh sprigs of flowering oregano as garnish

METHOD
Prepare mirlitons: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wearing kitchen gloves, peel mirlitons. Slice each in half lengthwise from top to bottom. Using a grapefruit spoon, carve out and discard the seed. Cut the mirliton halves into chunks and place in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add 2 quarts of water to cover the squash. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook until mirlitons can be pierced by a fork but are not too soft.

Pour squash into a colander to drain water.

Cook bacon: While water is draining from the squash, spread bacon on a rimmed baking sheet and place in preheated 350-degree oven until crispy (about 15 minutes).

Mash squash: While bacon cooks, place drained squash in a large bowl and mash with a potato masher. Transfer mashed squash to a fine-mesh strainer and press to remove as much water as possible. Put mash back in the bowl and puree with an immersion blender, leaving some small squash pieces intact. Place squash back in the fine mesh strainer with a bowl underneath and allow water to collect in the bowl while you begin cooking the onions and garlic. Reserve 3 tablespoons of the squash water.

Prepare cooked bacon: Remove crispy bacon from oven. Reserve 3 tablespoons of bacon fat. Place bacon on paper towel-lined plate to blot the rest of the grease. Chop bacon into small pieces. Set aside.

Sauté onion and garlic: In a sauté pan over medium-low heat, add reserved bacon fat and chopped onion. Cover and cook for 10 minutes until softened but not browned. Add garlic and 3 tablespoons of squash cooking water, cover, and continue cooking until the garlic and onion are very soft. Remove lid and continue cooking until all of the liquid has evaporated.

Make gratin mixture: Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of flour over the onions and garlic and whisk to combine, cooking for 3 minutes to remove the raw flavor from the flour. Slowly whisk in the two cups of milk to make a thick sauce. Add salt, black pepper, and cayenne. Stir in one tablespoon each of the thyme and oregano leaves. Stir in the cream cheese and grated Gouda. Stir in the strained puréed mirliton and chopped bacon. Adjust seasoning, adding more salt and pepper as needed.

Prepare dish and bake: Melt butter and mix with 1 cup of panko breadcrumbs, remaining thyme, and oregano. Spoon gratin mixture into individual ramekins or a casserole dish. Top with buttered herb crumbs. Place ramekins or casserole dish on a half-sheet pan and bake on the center rack at 350 degrees for 17 to 18 minutes, until the topping is golden brown and filling is bubbling. Garnish with sprigs of flowering oregano if desired. Serve hot, with hot sauce on the side for a little extra kick.