LAND OF ENCHANTMENT

My parents are avid collectors of Native American jewelry, and during my childhood would return from trips to New Mexico with gifts of turquoise jewelry for myself and my sisters. While I have always treasured these pieces, it wasn’t until a recent weekend at Santa Fe’s Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado that I truly understood the captivating charm of the high desert.

When I arrived at the tiny Santa Fe airport, the snow-capped Rocky Mountains presented a magnificent backdrop to the shiny town car and friendly driver the resort had sent to retrieve me and my luggage. Twenty minutes later we arrived at the luxury boutique resort, which is situated on 57 rolling acres in the Sangre de Cristo foothills.

Comprised of 65 intimate casitas, the property recently underwent a multimillion-dollar revitalization. The new pueblo-inspired design elegantly blends modern elements with timeless style. My casita was exactly what one would envision for a glorious weekend stay in Santa Fe. Wood beams traversed the ceiling, and a conical-shaped adobe wood-burning fireplace graced a corner. Sliding glass doors opened to a huge private patio dotted with lounge chairs that were ideal for reading books, savoring a cup of coffee, or just sitting and thinking (or not). Thoughtful details abounded: radiant bathroom floor heating; a humidifier to battle the high-desert dryness; and the chicest welcome tray full of chocolates.

As my two good friends who would be joining me for the weekend were still en-route, I set out to explore the resort. The property’s groomed pathways invited meandering while wagon wheel wood rocking chairs beckoned me to sit and, well, just stop for a moment. The true beauty of Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado is allowing you to just be—a rarity in our busy lives.

When my friends arrived, we toasted our first sunset of the weekend from the restaurant’s perfectly placed outdoor terrace. We raised our glasses high as the sky turned a fiery orange color—a spectacular burn-out before the sun dipped behind the Jemez Mountains and night fell.

For our first dinner of the weekend, we decided to venture off campus. The resort shuttle—which conveniently runs throughout the day and into the night— whisked the three of us to Cafe Pasqual’s in downtown Santa Fe. Having never heard of a pupusa before, we opted to try this delicious, griddled corn cake with zucchini, roasted corn, and roasted tomato-jalapeño. Full Southwestern flavors continued throughout our meal with the cochinita pibil, a traditional Mexican pulled pork dish, served Yucatán style: a pork shoulder slow-cooked in an achiote-orange marinade, wrapped in a banana leaf, and served with tortillas, habanero pink onions, and tostones.

The next morning, after sipping a coffee while admiring the spectacular mountain view, our group headed to the resort’s spacious full-service spa, which is uniquely situated on a spiritual vortex. I opted to try the Spiritual Journey treatment—a guided journey of peace and enlightenment. It began with a sage smudging ceremony to clear unsettled energy followed by a nutrient-rich adobe clay wrap. The infinitely relaxing experience concluded with a chakra-balancing massage to reset my mind, body, and spirit. After our treatments, we retreated to our private spa courtyard, complete with a sauna and hot tub, to admire the azure sky.

In addition to indulgent spa days, the resort offers a bevy of activities. Guests can experience daily hikes, yoga, culinary demonstrations, and inspiring adventure tours customized by the on-site Adventure Center, like the one-of-a-kind e-bike tour, available exclusively to resort guests, through the Valles Caldera National Preserve—a 14-mile-wide circular depression created by a spectacular volcanic eruption about 1.2 million years ago.

We had requested a serious hike that offered an opportunity to experience New Mexico’s unique culture, so our group set off into the wilderness accompanied by a knowledgeable Adventure Center guide. On the way to Bandelier National Monument, our guide urged us to grab natural pumice stones from the hills while he educated us on the geological history of this magical land. Over a million years ago, two massive volcanic eruptions covered this area with hundreds of feet of tuff or compacted volcanic ash. The tuff that cooled quickly became very crumbly, while the debris that took hundreds of years to cool became compact. From this crumbly, porous-feeling material, the indigenous people of this land built the most magnificent village of dwellings.

Carved into the rocks, four stories high and four rooms deep with wooden beams for ceilings, these homes were accessible by ladder. We were able to explore these dwellings—climbing up ladders, sitting inside the rooms, and noticing the almost black ceilings, a result of fires burned inside the rooms to seal the dust. High above the dwellings, we spied a carving of a sun. Every year on December 21st, the winter solstice, the setting sun perfectly aligns with this beautiful carving. The genius of this lost civilization was the prime topic of our conversation while we enjoyed a picnic-style lunch prepared by the resort’s chef.

Following lunch, we undertook an invigorating hike on the Middle Alamo trail toward Yapashi and the Shrine of the Stone Lions—one made even more magnificent by the thunderhead clouds looming above us. Thankfully, clear skies held and when we reached the top, yet another glorious mountain range came into view. Our guide led us through some yoga stretches that served to both counteract the rigors of the hike and as a pause to admire the natural around us.

After a vigorous afternoon, it was heaven to dip into the resort’s hot tub followed by a signature cocktail on my casita’s private patio. Dinner at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado’s signature restaurant, Terra, featuring regional delights with global influences, followed. We started off dinner with a hearty corn chowder and a zesty halibut ceviche. For our entrée, we paired the most refreshing Sancerre with bison (a first for me and absolutely delicious). The side dishes sounded so scrumptious that we indulged and ordered each one: green chile mac and cheese; charred avocado; crispy Brussels sprouts; and the most intricately layered potato dish. The potato is peeled, then each paper-thin layer is dipped in duck fat before layering it together with a chive chimichurri. Dessert was a s’more kit that we enjoyed over the wood-burning fire the resort had thoughtfully lit at my casita. After an eventful day, the crackling of the fire made for the most soothing of lullabies.

On our last day, we explored Santa Fe’s charming downtown. Breakfast was a stop at Mille to sample their perfectly flavorful and flaky croissants (traditional and brown sugar) followed by a stroll down Canyon Road where we popped in and out of art galleries and shops. The most delightful boutiques and restaurants are every which way you turn, and the time flew way too fast as we took our time perusing all the New Mexican artistry (woven baskets, rugs, pottery, Georgia O’Keefe). Coming full circle, I paid homage to memories of my parents’ childhood gifts while browsing the magnificent wares of the indigenous jewelers.

If you revere cultural marvels, admire sweeping landscapes, and delight in culinary gems, choose Santa Fe as your next vacation destination and Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado as your luxurious home base.

For more information and to book your next trip, visit fourseasons.com/santafe.