FORT LAUDERDALE, REFINED

From its “Venice of America” roots to a new era of understated glamour, this South Florida enclave is relaxed, yet elevated.

Set between the Atlantic Ocean and the Everglades, Fort Lauderdale has always been defined by water. Originally home to the Tequesta people, the city takes its name from a series of forts constructed during the Second Seminole War. Roughly 50 years after the war’s end, the quiet settlement was transformed into an emerging resort enclave by the arrival of Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway.

By the early 20th century, its intricate canal system and flourishing yachting culture earned it the enduring moniker “the Venice of America.” Today, Fort Lauderdale is a tableau of luxury hotels, grand marinas, and chic dining, but its understated coastal glamour is often described as a refined and less hectic alternative to nearby Miami.

We arrived in February, gratefully trading one of the coldest Midwestern winters in recent memory for a city that boasts more than 300 days of sunshine each year. Within minutes of the airport, whitewashed bungalows with terracotta-tiled roofs appeared alongside sleek high-rises—a graceful interplay of heritage and modernity. A palm-lined promenade, separating powder-soft sand from oceanfront cafés and boutiques, led us to our destination: Beach House Fort Lauderdale.

Recently reimagined and recognized by TripAdvisor as one of the 10 Best Hilton Hotels in Florida for 2026, the all-suite oceanfront resort introduces a residential sensibility to beachfront living. The accommodations are exceptionally generous. My suite featured a powder room, full kitchen, dining area, expansive living room, serene bedroom with an immense marble bathroom, and multiple access points to a sweeping wraparound balcony. Floor-to-ceiling windows dissolved the boundary between indoors and the sea, while gleaming, wide-plank wood floors layered with sisal rugs and topped with sturdy wood furniture and plush couches created an atmosphere both polished and deeply calming. Even the hotel’s signature lobby scent—aptly named “Smooth Operator”—lingers in memory.

Culinary offerings span five distinct venues, each with its own point of view: the convivial lobby lounge Barto; Nubé, a rooftop jewel; S3: Sun, Surf & Sand, oceanfront with a laid-back vibe; ilios, the Mediterranean-inflected, poolside restaurant; and the French-inspired takeout spot, Le Marché.

The first evening, dinner at S3 unfolded against a backdrop of shimmering Atlantic blues. The menu celebrates coastal cuisine—pristine daily catches, premium cuts, and an expansive sushi selection. We enjoyed sushi, salmon poke bowls, and steak grilled to perfection. As the dinner plates were cleared, a celebratory flourish arrived at our table for our friend’s birthday. The towering confections, crowned with sparklers, were accompanied by a round of applause.

Later, we headed to Nubé on the 26th floor—the first and only oceanfront rooftop lounge in the Fort Lauderdale Beach area and a favorite among guests and locals alike. Art-forward and impeccably styled (its iconic peace sign is practically a landmark), the space commands uninterrupted ocean views. The menu is a combination of creativity and whimsy. Our Smoke Cloud cocktails arrived beneath glass domes filled with aromatic smoke. When the domes were lifted tableside, a silky cloud enveloped us as we sipped our tequila, citrus, and toasted coconut-flavored confection. Cocktails were paired with Caviar in the Clouds—Nubé Imperial Caviar with airy Manchego and crisp potato chips—and an abundant seafood tower, which we enjoyed as the sky deepened from coral to indigo and the DJ’s tempo rose.

The following morning, I explored the charming residential streets behind the hotel and came upon the delightful Archibalds Village Bakery—ideal for a quiet espresso before the day becomes busy.

Later that morning, we borrowed the resort’s Townie bicycles and rode north toward Hugh Taylor Birch State Park, a haven of green within the bustling city. As we rode along the streets, the atmosphere reminded me of Palm Beach—orderly, sun-drenched, quietly elegant. Within the park, we pedaled along nature trails, stopping for photo ops at an enormous banyan tree and visiting the manatee-sighting outpost.

On our way back to the hotel, we passed the Bonnet House Museum & Gardens, a cultural treasure dedicated to art and environmental stewardship. This lovely spot has a Chicago connection as it was built in 1920 by Chicago-born artist Frederic Clay Bartlett, who donated A Sunday on La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat to the Art Institute of Chicago.

One evening, we explored the city’s canals by private gondola, dining on sea bass from Casa Sensei as we drifted past illuminated waterfront estates associated with figures such as entrepreneur Wayne Huizenga and the Fendi fashion dynasty. The experience felt cinematic as the water reflected a constellation of lights.

At sunrise the following morning, we gathered on the yoga deck above the promenade. While the Atlantic waves provided a steady rhythm matching our breaths, we watched the horizon turn pink and amber. Later, beneath the shade of a private cabana, I enjoyed what may have been the finest mahi sandwich of my life from ilios, which was also my preferred spot for a leisurely Mediterranean breakfast (I highly recommend the avocado toast).

Our last evening was all glitz and glamour with a curated mixology session followed by an intimate chef’s table experience. Five courses showcased seasonal, locally sourced ingredients paired with artfully composed cocktails. The amuse-bouche of caviar and potato chips was served with a vodka caviar martini, setting an indulgent tone. The seared diver scallop with Moroccan chermoula and crisp pancetta, accompanied by a Moroccan Mint cocktail, proved to be my favorite course.

A restorative morning at Spa Q and a final afternoon on the luminous stretch of sand completed our stay.

I once associated Fort Lauderdale primarily with spring break revelry. While that chapter lingers in pockets farther south, the city feels sophisticated—vibrant without excess. And, as it is just a few hours’ flight from the North Shore, Fort Lauderdale is perfect for a spontaneous getaway. So, book your ticket and head south, where the sunshine is as abundant as the hospitality.

For more information, visit hiltonbeachhouse.com.