FIJI’S OWN GILLIGAN’S ISLAND – ONLY FAR BETTER

Mention the South Pacific to anyone, and the images that generally come to mind are swaying palms, balmy weather, and warm, turquoise waters replete with resplendent marine life. Mention Fiji, and you get all of that, plus specifically, some of the kindest and most hospitable people on planet earth.

No small wonder then when the Australian, self-made billionaire Lang Walker saw the mind-bogglingly beautiful Fijian island, originally called Yaukuve, about an hour flight by either twin-otter DHC-6 seaplane or AStar 350 helicopter from Kokomo’s private luxury hangar in Nadi, Walker bought the island’s leasehold in 2011. He then renamed it Kokomo – a pseudonym of a composer whose music Walker once played as a child – then spared no expense developing one-third of the 140-acre island into a peaceful Pacific paradise that opened to guests in 2017. And in Lang’s typical philanthropic style of arranging matters, the ground rent for the island, payable to the village chief of nearby Dravuni island, population 60, supplies the requisite income to better the lives of Dravuni islanders with a school and other much needed infrastructure.

What resulted on Kokomo is a spectacular, exclusive, luxury resort. One that Thurston Howell III and his wife Lovey could never have imagined. Of course, Gilligan himself would have been thrilled to use the ocean-front hammocks that grace each villa and residence, while the Professor would have swooned over and most likely written another PhD dissertation on the Great Astrolabe Reef – the world’s fourth largest – that is quite literally Kokomo’s playground, just minutes away by boat.

ACCOMMODATIONS FIT FOR ROYALS
On arrival to Kokomo’s jetty or helipad – transport is determined by pilots while accounting for daily weather patterns – guests are whisked away to their villa or residence by electric golf cart. There’s a total of 21 oceanfront one, two, and three-bedroom villas, half on the island’s Sunrise side where I stayed, and half on the island’s Sunset side. There are also six grand hilltop residences comprising three to six-bedrooms containing 3,272 to 11,916 square feet. All residences are equipped with a personal golf cart, butler, and nanny, ensuring every need is seamlessly met.

The villa’s double wood gates provide entrée into a porte cocher amid lush greenery and is fully rock walled for the utmost in privacy. This leads to a private garden, with verdant, impeccably manicured surrounds. The outdoor deck contains a king-size day bed, an additional twin day bed, a four-person dining table, two loungers and a strategically placed hammock in between two perfectly positioned palm trees overlooking the pristine, white sandy beach. There’s also a wonderful, large private pool, and secluded, massive, outdoor shower.

The interior of the spacious villa, comprised of nearly 1,300 square feet, is deftly decorated to define how island dreams are created and seemingly where Martha Stewart happily married island chic. Roofs are high-pitched, utilizing local woods and rattan. The large living room had a full-size sofa, lounger, rattan chairs and workspace. The kitchenette contained a stocked minibar, and house made snacks, including divine chocolate-covered honeycomb produced by island bees. The Nespresso coffee machine and milk frother made mornings picture perfect.

The sublime bedroom is decorated in a neutral, calming color palette with both Fijian Tapa art and modern abstract pieces by Australian artist Chris Kenyon. Kenyon was in residence on the island for several months and over 200 of his pieces embellish Kokomo. Another 20 pieces by talented Australian artist John Olsen also adorn the resort. Dreams were deliriously sweet on the fantastic king-sized bed fitted with Madison Collection linens. Another seating area and desk completed the bedroom.

A his and hers walk-through closet had enough space for those with the luxury of staying a month – though most guests stay a week. The bathroom had large dual vanities separated by a twoperson walk-in shower and thick, enveloping towels, also by the Madison Collection. A freestanding deep-soaking bathtub in a beautiful separate haven of tranquility with seashells strung overhead, naturally had a glorious ocean view.

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY
Of course, there is in-room dining delivered by golf cart which can be enjoyed inside one’s villa or outside on one’s private deck. The oceanfront Beach Shack restaurant exudes casual elegance serving delightful breakfasts with fresh tropical fruits, and some of the finest Bircher muesli I can recall. I also enjoyed perfect eggs Benedict and another day, my staple, avocado toast.

Though I was normally too full midday, there were many choices at Beach Shack daily with seasonal specials and something for every palate at both lunch and dinner. Here the affable Australian Chef Andrew presides, and at dinner I devoured a lovely crudo bathed in tangy lilikoi and red snapper with blistered tomatoes. Another night at Beach Grill, the sunset barbeque was perfect after a long day spent snorkeling.

At Koko Cabana, serving both lunch and dinner, Chef Enzo prepares fusion Mediterranean Fijian dishes from the freshest ingredients and lords over a pizza oven creating pies that will likely have you simultaneously saying “Mamma mia” while singing ‘O sole mio’ in perfect Italian after just a couple of bites.

One must ‘walk the plank’ to arrive at the picturesque oceanfront Walker D. Plank restaurant. And I would gladly walk that plank every single day of my life. Culinary powerhouse Fijian Chef Caroline is not one guests soon forget. Yes, it’s true she is extremely talented, and her food will make you weep with joy. However, it is also her utterly delightful, one-of-a-kind personality, and infectious smile that renders guests downright giddy when she sits down to chat.

During one meal she perfectly prepared the freshest sashimi, tender calamari, giant lobster claws, and delectable, caramelized pork ribs making crystal clear I would never be a vegetarian. At another meal, I devoured lettuce wraps with chopped prawns, chili flakes and fish sauce, happily washing that down with a red snapper salad wrap. It’s entirely possible I may forever dream of another plank walk.

Freshness and sustainability are key themes on Kokomo. In addition to its hives, Kokomo has a 5.5-acre farm, a hydroponic greenhouse for leafy greens, and 300 free range chickens producing over 60-percent of the island’s needs. Kokomo has its own desalination and recycling plants and a reverse osmosis water system while also engaging in mangrove reforestation and coral restoration which can be seen while snorkeling near the jetty.

TO DO OR NOT TO DO
Naturally Kokomo may be the most perfect place on planet earth to do absolutely nothing. That said, there is serious magic both on the island and in the immediate surrounds.

The Yaukuve Spa Sanctuary has talented Fijian masseuses that nearly caused me to forget my name. Playing tennis with the pro’s assistant started most of my mornings. The walk to the hilltop state-ofthe- art fitness center got my cardio going while the views took my breath away. When I completed my workout, the trainer, as if right out of central casting, handed me a chilled, fresh coconut.

Snorkeling on both the Sunrise and Sunset sides of Kokomo is fantastic. Clear, balmy, turquoise waters, healthy reefs, and abundant, colorful fish with a plethora of huge, electric blue starfish. One day just before dusk, as if on cue, an entire community of spotted eagle rays frolicked about directly in front of the Beach Shack giddily entertaining us during happy hour.

The nearly 63-miles-long Great Astrolabe Reef contains one of the world’s most biologically diverse marine areas providing several dozen marvelous snorkel and dive sites within minutes of Kokomo. One afternoon three marine biologists, another couple and I boarded ‘Real Time,’ Kokomo’s 27-foot double-hull boat to snorkel nearby Serendipity and Wonderland sites. It was the couple’s first-time snorkeling, and it became quite clear they were forever altered by the extraordinary experience in these heavenly waters.

Another day we took Real Time to nearby Kadavu island and hiked up to a massive waterfall, naturally jumping in on arrival to cool off. En route, villagers were happy to engage, with one lovely elderly woman showing me how she made pandanus straw floormats for her home.

There’s also paddleboarding, kayaking, an ocean trampoline, and deep-sea fishing. For a deeper dive into local Fijian culture there are village visits on nearby Ono island. Guests can also be dropped off at the nearby uninhabited island of Namara with a packed picnic for a few hours of isolated perfection or indulge in a private starlight dinner or sunset cruise. Or simply have a cocktail at the bar, dreamily stare at the 12 islands in the near distance – only eight of which are populated – and dwell upon your indisputable good fortune for landing on Kokomo.

PARTING THOUGHTS
Mother Nature has been undeniably kind and generous to Kokomo. Happily, Father Time, coupled with the brilliant foresight and expertise of Lang Walker, has taken care of the rest and made Kokomo marvelous. Sadly, Walker passed away in Sydney just a few days before I arrived on Kokomo. Without a doubt though, Lang’s spirit lives on throughout the island he deeply loved, while the island’s kind, attentive employees carry the torch onward, sharing this Eden-like slice of heaven with those fortunate enough to experience it.

I’m hopeful that if I’m lucky enough to get to the pearly gates one day, it will look exactly like Kokomo Private Island Resort. The good news is that one can enjoy this remarkable place where island dreams become reality amid luxurious accommodations, balmy turquoise waters, and multi-hued sunsets while still alive. Sota tale Kokomo.

IF YOU GO
Award-wining Fiji Airways offers daily, nonstop service from LAX to Nadi (pronounced Nandee), its hub, and thrice weekly nonstop service from SFO, all on modern A350-900 XWBs.

Fiji Air’s business class on the A350 has full Wi-Fi connectivity so work can get A350s are quiet, in part due to the Rolls-Royce Trent engine. Configuration is 1-2-1, all with direct aisle access, a 60 to 62-inch seat pitch, and fully lie flat seats.