BRITISH PICNIC HAM PIES

Sunny June Saturdays just beg for excursions. Whether hiking, biking, or boating through the woodlands, it’s the right time for a good long wander followed by a celebratory picnic! These British-style picnic pies put me in mind of a storied Wind in the Willows repast with loyal Mole, adventurous Ratty, and the intractable Toad. Both elegant and transportable, these pies are the perfect fare to tuck in your hamper. Filled with minced ham, veal, (or pork tenderloin), sage, and parsley, they are both sturdy and filling. Add some zingy whole grain mustard, pickles, and a sharp aged cheddar, plus a basket of fruit, and you’re all set.

The pies do take some time to make, but keep well, so I prepare them ahead of time. You can space things out to fit your schedule, preparing the filling and stock for the jellied aspic one day, and then baking them the next. If you’re not familiar with a traditional hot water crust with its early medieval roots, know that it’s easier to make (and more forgiving) than a pie crust. But while sixth-century hot water crusts were made with lard and were intended to be discarded in favor of the tender meat inside, my crusts are made with butter and bacon fat, and while sturdy, are deliciously edible. This recipe makes six individual 3 ½-inch pies. (Or, you can make 3 of the little pies and one small rectangular loaf as I have done in the photo.)

As each pie bakes, the meat pulls away a bit from the sides of the crust, leaving a little air pocket. To seal this, you’ll pour the hot stock you’ve made into the vent hole at the top. As the stock chills, it will firm up into a sparkling jellied aspic that adds flavor and helps the pie keep longer.

Makes 6, 3 1/2-inch 8-ounce pies

INGREDIENTS

For the jellied stock:

• 2 pounds meaty uncured pork bones or one large ham bone
• 1 large onion
• 1 large carrot
• 2 bay leaves
• 5 peppercorns
• 8 cups water (or enough to cover the bones and vegetables)
• Salt to taste
• 1 envelope of unflavored gelatin powder (8 grams)

For the hot water pastry crust:

• 4 1/2 cups flour, sifted
• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 6 tablespoons white rendered bacon fat, chilled to solidity
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 6 ounces milk
• 4 1/2 ounces water
• 3 large egg yolks to brush on the pastry

For the filling:

• 3 cups diced baked ham
• 2 cups minced veal or pork tenderloin
• 3 or 4 slices uncured bacon, minced to make 1 cup
• Fresh parsley leaves, minced to make 1/2 cup
• Fresh sage leaves, minced to make 2 tablespoons
• 2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS

MAKE THE JELLIED STOCK: Place all ingredients in a heavy-bottomed stock pot over medium heat. Heat to boiling; reduce heat to a simmer. Skim off and discard any foam. Partially cover pot and simmer for five hours. Remove from heat and strain stock through a colander into a fresh pot, discarding solids from the colander. Cool stock. Once solid, skim off and discard any fat that has collected on the surface. Heat stock again; once it begins to warm, stir in powdered gelatin and heat until melted. Season finished stock with salt to taste. Refrigerate until you are ready to make the filling and crust.

MAKE THE FILLING: On a clean work surface using a very sharp knife, mince ham, veal (or pork tenderloin), and uncured bacon. In a large bowl, using your hands, thoroughly knead and mix meat with herbs and pepper. Cover lightly with a clean kitchen towel and let rest while you make the crust.

MAKE THE HOT WATER CRUST: In a large cooking pot over medium-low heat, add butter, solid rendered bacon fat, milk, and water. Heat gently until the fat has melted, without allowing the mixture to boil. Place sifted flour mixed with salt in a large bowl and create a well in the middle. Using a wooden spoon, stir the warm liquid into the flour until the mass comes together into a soft dough ball, then knead slightly. Cut dough in half and roll half of the dough out to about ⅛ to ¼-inch thickness. Coat the insides of six, 8-ounce straight-sided baking crocks with vegetable shortening. Cut parchment paper strips and circles and press into the sides and bottoms of the ramekins. Cut 3 circles of the dough about two inches larger than the ramekins; ease and fit dough into the first three ramekins, pressing firmly to mold the dough to the sides of each one, leaving no air pockets. Leave about ½ inch of dough sticking up above the edges. Repeat with the second half of the dough, cut and press into remaining three ramekins. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

FILL AND BAKE PIES: Fill each pastry-lined crock with the meat mixture. Press together and then roll out remaining dough. Cut pastry “lids” for each crock, making each circle about 1 inch larger than the circumference of the crock. Cut a ½ inch circle in the center of the top of each pastry. Place each pastry lid over each crock. Tuck and fold the edge of each pastry lid over the bottom pastry extensions, pinching and tucking to seal. Decoratively flute the edge of each pastry, pressing with thumb and forefingers. Cut six, 6 x 2-inch strips of aluminum foil. Wrap strips around your forefinger to create little metal tubes. Poke each tube into the hole in the top of each pastry to create a vent. Place filled crocks on a baking sheet. Beat egg yolks and coat the top of each pie crust with egg yolk. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking for 45 to 50 minutes until liquid is bubbling through the vents and crusts are a very deep golden brown. Remove from oven. Cool.

ADD JELLIED STOCK: When pies are cooled, the meat filling will have pulled away from the inside of the crusts. To fill this gap, slightly warm 1 cup of the reserved jellied stock, just until it is pourable. Pour a small amount of stock into each pie through the metal vent. Remove and discard vents. Refrigerate pies for several hours to solidify the jellied stock. Tip pies out of the crocks; peel off and discard the parchment paper. Serve pies cold, or at room temperature. Or, place a pie on a plate and warm slightly (the jellied stock will spill out when you cut warmed pies.).