ARABIAN LAMB PIES

Although familiar comforts like mac and cheese, chili, and slow roasts can bring warmth on cold winter nights, now and then I like to spice things up at the dinner table with something more exotic. These little pies do just that. Seasoned with bzar, an Emirati mixture of ten spices that has an almost garam masala-like flavor, plus onion, leek, cilantro, and tahini in the lamb filling, the pies are exquisitely flavorful. I’ve made these with ground beef as an alternative, and you can too—but ground lamb is our family favorite.

I prepare the yeasted dough for the crusts first, then make the bzar while the dough rises.

In the Emirates, bzar is often made right before Ramadan, a month of fasting, prayer, and community observed by Muslims across the world. Choose freshly bought spices for the blend and you’ll be rewarded with the best flavor. (The recipe makes enough spice blend to last you all winter.)

I love the inclusion of tahini in the lamb filling as it adds nutty depth to the flavor.

Makes 8, 5-inch pies and 1 1/2 cups bzar spice blend

FOR THE BZAR SPICE BLEND:

• 1/2 cup whole Tellicherry black peppercorns
• 1/2 cup whole cumin seeds
• 1/2 cup whole coriander seeds
• 2 tablespoons whole cloves
• 2 Ceylon (or Saigon) cinnamon sticks, broken into small pieces to make 2 tablespoons
• 2 tablespoons whole green cardamom pods
• 3 chiles de arbol, seeds and stems discarded
• 2 whole nutmegs
• 2 tablespoons ground ginger
• 2 tablespoons ground turmeric

FOR THE PIE CRUSTS:

• 1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 1/3 cups whole wheat flour
• 1/4 cup whole milk powder
• 2 teaspoons bzar
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 2 1/4 teaspoons instant, fast-acting yeast granules (1 packet)
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon warm water
• 3 1/2 tablespoons melted butter or ghee (clarified butter), cooled to room temperature
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 large egg, room temperature

FOR THE LAMB FILLING:

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 large onion finely chopped to make 1 cup
• 2 pounds ground lamb OR beef
• 2 teaspoons fresh cracked black pepper
• 1 fresh leek, washed, stem and dark green parts discarded, white and yellow portion thinly sliced
• 3 tablespoons tahini (note: stir tahini in its jar, or pour into a bowl and pulse with an immersion blender to mix oil with solids before using)
• 1 tablespoon black vinegar OR aged balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 small bunch cilantro, stems discarded, leaves finely chopped to make 1/4 cup

FOR THE EGGWASH AND SESAME TOPPING:

• 1 large egg mixed with 1 teaspoon water
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

FOR EXTRA TAHINI SAUCE TO SERVE AT TABLE:

• 3 tablespoons tahini (note: stir tahini well in its jar (or remove into a bowl and pulse with an immersion blender to mix oil with solids before using)
• 1 tablespoon black vinegar OR aged balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 small bunch cilantro, stems discarded, leaves finely chopped to make 1/4 cup

METHOD

MAKE THE PIE CRUST: In a large bowl, mix all-purpose and whole wheat flours with milk powder, bzar, baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, bloom the yeast with the sugar in 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon of water. Make a well in the flour/dried milk mixture and pour in the bloomed yeast/sugar water, melted butter, and egg. Mix until you have a rough dough. Scoop dough onto a clean, lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth. Shape dough into a ball, place into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a clean cloth, and allow to rest for 15 minutes while you grind the spices.

MAKE THE BZAR SPICE BLEND: Working one spice at a time, grind each of the first seven spices into a fine powder in a spice grinder and combine in a bowl. Grind the nutmeg by hand with a microplane. Add ground ginger and turmeric last. Stir all to combine and scoop all into an airtight glass jar (it will keep for up to a year, stored in a dark place).

FINISH MAKING CRUST: After resting the dough for 15 minutes, knead again for 3 to 5 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball and replace in the lightly oiled bowl. Cover with a clean cloth or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draft-free place for 1 1/2 hours.

MAKE LAMB FILLING: During the last 20 minutes of rising time for the crust, make the lamb filling. In a large skillet over medium heat, add oil and onions and cook, stirring often until onions are soft and golden brown—about 10 minutes. Add ground lamb and cook, breaking up the meat and stirring until the meat is browned and excess liquid has cooked off. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Scoop the meat into a bowl to cool. Stir in chopped leeks. In a separate bowl, stir tahini, vinegar, and 1 tablespoon water until smooth. Stir mixture into the lamb; add cilantro. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.

ASSEMBLE PIES: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease eight mini pie pans (5” wide x 1” deep) with shortening or vegetable oil spray. Divide the risen dough into 8 pieces. Shape each into a ball. Cover all with lightly dampened kitchen towels and allow to rest for 15 more minutes. Place a dough ball on a clean work surface and roll out into a 7-inch circle. Tuck dough into pie dish. Repeat with remaining dough balls and pie dishes. Divide lamb filling into the eight dishes. Brush all with egg wash. Sprinkle the top of each pie with sesame seeds. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes until crusts are golden brown. Eat hot, or at room temperature. Serve the pies with a big green salad and some extra cilantro and tahini sauce for the table.