A SOJOURN AT SEA
By Dustin O’Regan
Portoferraio in Elba.
By Dustin O’Regan
Portoferraio in Elba.

After her semester away at school, my daughter and I had been hoping for a week-long getaway—just the two of us. As we love to explore, the idea of a Mediterranean cruise packed with shore excursions sounded perfect. As we also adore the finer things, we knew to look no further than to sail with Crystal.
In 2022, Crystal was acquired by the world-renowned luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group (AKTG), which brought a new vision and vigor to the brand. Crystal offers cruises around the globe, with voyages ranging from a week to several months in length. So, whether you’re seeking an island-hopping escapade, a grand world voyage, or a cultural immersion in a single region, there’s a journey for everyone.
This year marks Crystal’s 35th anniversary, and the company’s decades of experience—now enhanced by AKTG’s signature touch—were evident in every detail on our ship, the Crystal Serenity. From the moment we stepped aboard and were greeted by name, handed a glass of champagne, and escorted to our suite by our personal butler, Nitin, we felt like honored guests.
The newly refurbished ship was stunning. Our suite, beautifully appointed with rich textures in a color palette of blue hues, a separate living area, and a veranda opening from both the bedroom and the living room, felt more like a floating retreat than a typical cruise cabin. The heavenly beds were dressed in sumptuous linens by Jesurum Venezia, supplier to European aristocracy. My daughter was obsessed with the bathroom, which featured a gorgeous Alpine marble spa-like shower complete with rain, jet, and handheld settings. She joked that it was bigger than her dorm room—by a long shot.


We quickly fell into a rhythm of indulgence and discovery. Each evening, a curated list of the following day’s activities was delivered to our suite—yoga classes, lectures, shopping events, and more.
Our evening dinners were nothing short of spectacular. One night, we had the unforgettable experience of dining at Umi Uma, the only Nobu Matsuhisa restaurant at sea. My daughter, a self-proclaimed sushi connoisseur, declared it the best she’d ever had. Another favorite was Osteria d’Ovidio, which offers upscale Italian fare and the most delicious desserts.


We also enjoyed the Waterside, where seasonal ingredients and wine pairings made every dish sing. Beefbar, a culinary hotspot born in Monte Carlo and serving a fusion of global street food—where beef, reef, and leaf collide in wildly flavorful dishes—was our vacation fave. My daughter declared the Bolognese to be the best of her life, and we both couldn’t get enough of the jasmine tea–smoked Wagyu bao buns.
Afternoons found us enjoying tea by the sea—tiny pastries and perfect cups poured in a posh setting with a glorious Mediterranean view.
With nearly a one-to-one guest-to-crew ratio, you feel cared for in the most wonderful ways. Our butler knew our preferences within a day. Staff around the ship greeted us by name. It was never overbearing, just quietly intuitive.

We spent our time on the ship reveling in all it had to offer—from spa treatments at the Aurora Spa & Salon, to invigorating yoga classes, to poolside relaxation, to evening shows at the Galaxy Lounge, and impromptu piano sing-alongs in the Avenue Saloon. And while on board, there was never any stress about additional charges. From meals and drinks to workshops and gratuities, all costs were included in the cruise fare.
One of the great joys of cruising is the blend of shipboard luxury with daily cultural immersion. Our voyage began in Marseille with stops in the French city of Menton and several ports in Italy: Genoa, Livorno, Elba (Napoleon’s isle of exile), Santo Stefano, and Sardinia. While excursions aren’t included in the cruise fare, the options—and price points—were impressively diverse, ranging from perfume-making workshops and intimate winery tours to private yacht charters and cooking classes in Tuscan villas. Some ports offered direct access, while others required charming tender rides.
In Menton, a town famous for its lemons, we wandered through narrow lanes and climbed to the dramatic hilltop basilica. On the way, we admired cascading gardens, sandy beaches, and colorful Mediterranean facades. We also visited Le Cimetière du Vieux Château. Perched on the site of a medieval castle, the cemetery overlooks the sea and is filled with hauntingly beautiful tombs. I found one to be especially moving—a 1912 stone statue of a young girl rising from an ornate sepulcher that reminded me of Edgar Allan Poe’s poem Annabel Lee.




On Elba and in Santo Stefano, we explored the ancient towns’ colorful streets, hiked rugged hills, and roamed historic fortresses. In Genoa, we hired a private driver for a scenic trip to Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino. After a guided tour of the latter and a bit of boutique shopping, we strolled the beach in this famously picturesque enclave beloved by artists, jetsetters, and celebrities alike.
From Livorno, we took a day trip to Florence. While my daughter lobbied for a Tuscan cooking class, I couldn’t pass up the chance to revisit my favorite masterpieces in the Uffizi—Botticelli’s Primavera and The Birth of Venus, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and Leonardo’s Annunciation. We still managed to take in the Duomo, the Baptistery’s Gates of Paradise, David at Galleria dell’Accademia, Palazzo Vecchio, Ponte Vecchio, and Santa Croce, where the great Michelangelo rests. We even squeezed in a quick stroll down Via de’ Tornabuoni for a little shopping.
In Olbia, on the sparkling island of Sardinia, we boarded a yacht and sailed the famed Emerald Coast. We dove into pristine turquoise waters, then savored a seafood lunch in glamorous Porto Cervo—salt on our skin, sun on our faces, and fresh catch on our plates. Perfecto!
By the time the voyage ended, neither of us wanted to leave. Suite 9030 had become our home. The trip was more than a vacation; it was a collection of unforgettable moments wrapped in beauty, culture, and ease. As we stepped off the ship in Rome, we promised ourselves this wouldn’t be our last Crystal voyage. Pack your bags, book a trip, and happy sailing!
For more information, visit crystalcruises.com.
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