A ROMAN REVERIE

Eager to catch a glimpse of the new pope—and lured by a Caravaggio exhibition—my daughter and I set off to explore the Eternal City.

With last spring’s excitement surrounding the appointment of the first U.S.-born pope—and especially as Pope Leo XIV hails from Chicago—my daughter and I were inspired to visit Rome. Adding to the inspiration was the blockbuster Caravaggio exhibition at the Palazzo Barberini—I’ve long adored the work of this brilliant, if tempestuous, genius. So, in May, we said addio to the North Shore and buongiorno to Rome!

STAY
The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi, an opulent 19th-century marble palace overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, served as our home base. Deriving its name from the Sanskrit word meaning “without end,” the luxury hotel group Anantara promises unforgettable journeys rooted in local culture, beauty, and a sense of movement—and its Roman outpost more than delivered.

A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, Palazzo Naiadi is steeped in a history dating back to the splendor of ancient Rome. The neoclassical palace overlooks the grand Fountain of the Naiads and sits directly atop the ancient Diocletian Baths—a vast thermal complex built between 298 and 306 AD that once served as a social hub for Romans. From the hotel’s lower level, glass floors reveal the baths’ preserved foundations, pools, and mosaics, offering a glimpse into the city’s layered past.

The building’s stately facade provides a dramatic welcome, and inside, guests are greeted by a soaring white stucco lobby lined with colonnades and crowned by a glittering Murano glass chandelier. Modern touches, including a striking piece by famed Italian artist Mario Sironi, blend seamlessly with the hotel’s classic elegance.

With 232 rooms, the property offers a full suite of luxury amenities: the Michelin-worthy restaurant INEO, an indulgent Anantara Spa, and a fitness center outfitted with cutting-edge Technogym equipment. Its panoramic rooftop terrace—one of the largest in central Rome—is home to SEEN by Olivier Bar, where cocktails and sunsets are equally unforgettable. An infinity pool completes the rooftop experience, perfect for a post-sightseeing dip.

Our suite, situated just above the piazza, offered an elegant retreat at the day’s end with its high ceilings and a glorious crown molding—possibly the most ornate I’ve ever seen. Striped wallpaper, sumptuous bedding, and opulent décor created a regal atmosphere. The enormous marble bathroom felt indulgent, and the Aqua di Parma products added an aromatic element. Our view of the Fountain of the Naiads and the bustling square captivated us, and each night before bed, we’d throw open the windows and people-watch to our hearts’ content. When we weren’t marveling at the splendor of our suite, we were indulging in unforgettable experiences across Rome—starting, of course, with the food.

DINE
An absolute highlight of our stay was dining at INEO, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant. Its name, from the Latin meaning “to enter” or “to begin,” captures the philosophy of Executive Chef Heros De Agostinis, who brings together the flavors and aromas from the many lands that have shaped his decades-long culinary journey.

The ambiance is intimate and elegant; 1960s-style lamps designed by Gae Aulenti cast a warm glow over the rich leather and velvet seating. Every course was a revelation—artfully presented and infused with heritage and innovation. The six-piece amuse-bouche (each bite beautifully balanced on an individual pedestal) set the tone for what would be a seven-course culinary extravaganza. The evening began with Veal Sweetbread in Amalfi Lemon, Artichokes and Green Shiso and Bluefin Tuna Panzanella; then “Tribute to the Master” Cacio and Pepper Spaghetti with Raw Prawns and Lime for the first course; then Muhammara Ravioli with Seafood and Chef’s Baharat for the second; then a divine Black Cod with Lime and Curry, Basil and Zucchini Flowers for the main. To top it all off was a decadent dessert of Strawberry, Rhubarb, Vanilla, and Cardamom. The expert sommelier paired each course with aromatic, delicious wine.

SEE
As part of our papal adventure, we were fortunate to witness a historic moment—catching Pope Leo XIV’s first Sunday prayer in St. Peter’s Square. Standing in the heart of Rome, surrounded by thousands of well-wishers, was a moment we won’t soon forget.

On your visit, be sure to take advantage of two memorable excursions arranged by Anantara. “Secrets of the Vatican” offered exclusive access to closed-off areas of the Vatican Museums, led by a passionate art historian who brought Renaissance masterpieces to life and revealed hidden papal histories.

For a lighter (and faster!) pace, “Rome by Vespa” was thrilling. Seated in a classic sidecar with our informative and capable guide at the wheel, we zipped around the city visiting landmarks like the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and the panoramic Janiculum Hill, along with vibrant neighborhoods including Trastevere, Testaccio, and Rione Monti.

One of my favorite places in Rome is the Galleria Borghese, containing a treasure trove of works by Bernini, Caravaggio, and Titian. Bernini’s sculptures have always been a particular favorite (Apollo and Daphne, The Abduction of Persephone)—his ability to carve softness and motion into marble is nothing short of miraculous. Even the villa’s ceilings and floors are works of art.

Don’t miss the Galleria’s recently reopened Giardino dell’Uccelliera. Lemon trees and flowering plants flank the path to a beautiful aviary adorned with baroque flourishes and rooftop statuary. The garden is not easy to find, so be sure to ask one of the security guards to reveal its entrance. Note: be sure to purchase your tickets for the Galleria Borghese well in advance—although I bought our tickets weeks ahead of the trip, many of the days and times were already booked.

After the art immersion, we took a break to absorb Rome. A lovely spot to soak in the city is along the Tiber River, under the shade of the stately plane trees that line Via Lungotevere. The tree’s multi-colored bark and expansive canopies are more beautiful than the name might suggest. With St. Peter’s Basilica and Castel Sant’Angelo in the distance, we watched as the locals strolled along the banks of the gently flowing river.

Of course, no trip to Rome is complete without seeing the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. If you’re a history buff, I highly recommend a guided tour—there is always something new to learn. For a bird’s-eye view of the area, head to the terrace atop the Victor Emmanuel II Monument.

Just next door to the monument is the Capitoline Museums—the oldest public museums in the world, dating back to 1471—offering an extraordinary collection of ancient sculpture and Renaissance masterpieces. The museums border the stunning Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century.

For poetry lovers, a stop at the Keats-Shelley House located next to the Spanish Steps is a must. The museum is dedicated to the Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley and contains a collection of memorabilia, letters, manuscripts, and even a death mask.

To cap off the trip, we were thrilled and fortunate to catch the blockbuster Caravaggio exhibition at Palazzo Barberini, a breathtaking survey of the artist’s work, including rare pieces from private collections. His dramatic lighting and emotional realism never cease to amaze me.

Though our trip was brief, it left a lasting impression. We set out to experience the city through the lens of a pivotal papal moment and the unveiling of a beloved artist’s work. What we found was a vibrant city and living museum, where every street, building, and piazza echo with centuries of history. From religious moments in St. Peter’s Square to awe-inspiring masterpieces, Rome reminded us that history is something you feel, see, and live.

Arrivederci and buon viaggio!

For more information visit anantara.com/en/palazzo-naiadi-rom, ineorestaurant.com, galleriaborghese.it, ksh.roma.it, palazzo-barberini.com.