A DIAMOND IN THE DESERT

I often share tales of faraway destinations, but I recently discovered the most spectacular gem just a short flight from Chicago. Utah luxury resort Amangiri is one of the world’s most renowned retreats and has been showered with well-deserved accolades including Robb Report’s recent declaration that Amangiri is one of “The 50 Greatest Luxury Hotels on Earth.”

Set in a vast desert landscape, Amangiri (meaning “peaceful mountain” in Sanskrit) is a contemporary masterpiece in the heart of the greatest concentration of national parks in North America. Surrounded by dramatic ancient rock formations and marbled canyons on the majestic Colorado Plateau, Amangiri provides front-row access to more than 900 acres of untouched wilderness enabling a world of adventure and exploration.

We flew into Page, Arizona—a tiny airport peppered with private planes—where we were welcomed by an Amangiri representative who drove us the short 20-minute jaunt to the resort in Canyon Point, Utah. Driving through Page, we admired the striking red and orange sandstone rising against a clear blue sky in forms ranging from slender columns of rock called hoodoos to flat-topped buttes and sheer-faced cliffs. As we crossed the Utah border and approached Amangiri, the topography altered from red sandstone to white limestone with towering white cliffs hugging the road as we drove deep into the canyon. During childhood road trips to visit family in Iowa, I loved to find “faces” in the stone bluffs flanking the Mississippi River. On this journey with childlike excitement, I discovered a “monkey” and a “lion” peering out of the rock, both welcoming us to a great adventure.

At the end of a tree-lined drive and perched on the canyon floor, Amangiri’s main building and 34 modernist suites welcome guests to one of the world’s most dramatic natural settings. Created more than 100 million years ago when the oceans rose and petrified what was once the world’s largest desert, the landscape resembles huge sand dunes frozen in place.

The resort’s angular, minimalist architecture honors and respects the magic and mystery of this remarkable terrain by seamlessly blending into its surroundings. Our Desert Wing suite, for example, was accessed via a narrow-walled lane designed as a tribute to the area’s famed slot canyons. The suite’s view stole our breath—the entire end of the room bore floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the rolling mesa and our desert lounge with a builtin firepit. Even the bathroom’s shower/bathing area boasted an incredible desert view while a sliding barn door provided privacy for the green-tiled lavatory. The room’s neutral palette, heavy on white, allowed the terrain’s ever-changing colors to be the real focus. As the day’s light waxed and waned, the limestone’s hues shifted from a delicate cream to a deep orange.

If glamping is more your preference, Amangiri offers tented pavilions nestled into the cliff ’s base a short 5-minute drive from the resort. Each of Camp Sarika’s 10 pavilions provides the utmost luxury including a firepit and private plunge pool.

The main Pavilion, the heart of the property, contains the living room, dining room, gallery, and boutique. One of our favorite Amangiri locations was the stunning pool situated just outside the Pavilion. We spent hours on the poolside day beds mesmerized as the sun’s reflection on the water created a light show that danced across the 160-million-year-old rock formation at the pool’s edge. While the temptation to remain poolside was strong, a myriad of activities encouraged us to explore our surroundings.

ADVENTURES

Located on the Navajo reservation, the Lake Powell Valley Navajo Tribal Park remains undeveloped seeming much the same as it was a millennium ago. The park is home to several slot canyons—extremely narrow canyons that can measure as narrow as 3 feet in width and be as deep as 300 feet. Created by rain erosion over millions of years, the walls of these rare sandstone formations resemble billowing capes and contain a kaleidoscope of colors that shift with the golden light. Social media images of these slot canyons have captivated viewers from all over the world and have increased tourism dramatically. Fortunately, a peaceful “in the middle of nowhere” feeling still prevails.

Our Amangiri Navajo guide, Ammon, took us to three slot canyons—Upper Antelope Canyon (a site made famous by Instagrammers and an Apple wallpaper option), the curvy Rattle Snake Canyon, and Owl Canyon—named for its great horned inhabitants. After awe-inspiring hours, we left the slot canyons to hike another geological marvel—Horseshoe Bend. The rocky canyon descends 1,000 feet to the Colorado River, giving us a renewed appreciation for nature’s artistry.

Hiking was a favorite activity on the Amangiri grounds. The resort offers complimentary daily hikes that give guests individualized introductions to the ecology, geology, and human history of the area. I highly recommend the West Coyote Trail, with its lacey purple lichen and pops of scrub oak, and the Broken Arrow Cave Trail, which ends in a cavern used by the land’s indigenous people for more than 8,000 years.

The resort also offers rock-climbing experiences for every adventurer— some catering to the curious novice while others exist for the most daring of enthusiasts. Our decision to try via ferrata rock climbing put us in the latter camp. A via ferrata (Italian for “iron way”) is a climbing route on a steep, exposed mountain that uses metal rails, ladders, or rungs that climbers clip into on their ascent. Our day began when we were picked up for our destination— a giant hoodoo. After our skilled guide walked us through the initial training course, it was off to “clip, clip, climb, (don’t look down), clip, clip, climb.” The first leg was a vertical ascent on metal rungs affixed to the face of the rock. Other ascents included ladders while some sported bridges. The first bridge was an 18-inchwide suspension bridge spanning a 600-foot-deep gorge. The second bridge was much skinnier (a 6-inch bridge) and I tripped but the safety cables prevented my untimely demise. Once we reached the summit, we were rewarded by the stunning panoramic views. After a little exploration, rehydration, and a few photos, it was time to descend; a bit of a nail-biter as it wasn’t always easy to see where your foot was landing. Despite my initial hesitation and some harrowing moments, I was so proud to complete the route— creating a lifelong memory of a magnificent adventure alongside my daughter.

In addition to hiking and climbing, Amangiri offers activities ranging from hot air balloon rides and horseback riding with Amangiri’s wranglers to cultural encounters immersing guests in the Native American culture. The resort’s location gives guests access to an array of natural attractions from national parks (Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon are just two) to the gloriousness of Lake Powell (the second largest man-made lake). We could have been entertained for weeks.

SPA

After a thrilling day outside, be sure to visit the Aman Spa for a little tender loving care. As I sat by the fireplace and sipped warm pear ginger tea while the sounds of a Navajo flute floated through the air and water elements echoed in the distance, I thought I had never been so relaxed before a treatment. I highly recommend the spa’s signature Utah Salt & Clay Wrap, a delightful way to experience two key components of the 45th state.

CUISINE

The main restaurant’s view pays tribute to the resort’s extraordinary setting while the menu pays tribute to Native American cuisine. Sage (the savory smell is noticeable throughout the property) is a flavorful element of many dishes. My favorite meal was enjoyed fireside as the sun sank behind the mesa and started with a carrot, sage, and ginger soup followed by a miso salmon with truffle potatoes and cauliflower in a fig glaze. The grand finale was a grenache in a hazelnut crust.

Amangiri, through architecture, adventure, and cuisine, offers a chic antidote to the pressures of our bustling, industrial, and ever-changing world. This earthly paradise, a haven for billionaires and celebrities, provides its guests with tranquility wrapped in luxury. Book now—beauty, peace, astonishment, and the via ferrata await.

For more information, visit aman.com.